Yeah... Things change what can ya do... That's why this is the 1st thing I wrote in the tutorial.
Disclaimer. There are limits to what you can convert. Complex models with lots of fillets and chamfers are very difficult if not impossible to convert. This tutorial is will allow you to convert most simple parts so that they can be readily modified to suit your needs.
TBH, Any part where two fillets converge at odd angles will cause a failure. My recommendation would be to use "faceted".
Example: I imported a mesh, Cali-Cat. I created face groups and converted the mesh using "parametric" and "faceted"
Next I select one face.
And I hit the "delete" key. Viola!
A few more clicks and a few more deletes and there ya go. Just as good as a real model.
And you can even punch holes in it and create fillets, features, etc.
Lastly... Like I said... not everything can be converted. Rectilinear stuff has the greatest chance of success and if that fails... Do what I do and pull out the caliper and measure the part and re-create it from scratch.
Cheers and good luck on your project. Hope you get it sorted.
Yeah thanks, I was trying to follow that already for the usb connection, but I encountered that reset button issue that was pointed out in the firsts comments so I should retry with cleaning maybe. And then, just to say everything at this point, I think I didn't install correctly katapult because I had an error during the first compile, so I just tried to skip that part to see if it works. But I actually had the idea of switching to can bus connection.
The Canbus connection of the Octopus Pro is the RJ11 connector on the motherboard.
I'd recommend you purchase this RJ11 adaptor to connect the High/Low wires of the Canbus.
Here is the location of the high-low Canbus terminal ( 2 & 3)
Use this guide to install your Canbus network. Canbus Guide
I had the same issue with the FlyBoard not shown in my RASPI. There a few people on facebook with the same problem and most of the time, it´s an dirty or jamming reset button. I cleaned it with some ethanol and now it is working fine. The two thin cables seem to be for the flashing via CAN, but you also can flash the board via usb, too (as described above).