Leaderboard

That's the one that caught me on my VZ330 AWD build.

Monitor the fan noise ,if its gettng louder then replace ,your asking how long is a piece of string ? good fans will last ,cheap fans will not .

Hi, Your post was from a while ago, so I hope the moderators don’t mind me reviving it and read the reasoning for allowing this further ahead. But first, a little background: I was skimming through a video that’s over two years old when I noticed a strange .cfg file. A quick Google search—bada bing, bada boom—and here I am. I have no idea what was available a year ago, but it looks like the conversation back then was centered on the XY-axis. The consensus was (and still is) to just get the backers and forget about it, which honestly sounds fair and true even today. For 2025, as of my reply, the discussion seems to be focused on the Z-axis specifically. With a little digging, I found posts, commits, and development around this exact topic as recently as last month. This means the topic is fresh and ongoing. The question is about the Z-axis, specifically where to place the thermistor. I have exactly the same question. Based on the goal (measure vertical extrusion temperatures) and checking the [Z_Thermal_Adjust], it looks like we will need to place a single thermistor directly in contact with a vertical extrusion. I've seen people use NTK 50K, but I'm familiar with 104NT-4-R025H42G so I'm going with that. Placement requirements: 1. Direct contact with a vertical extrusion [Z_Thermal_Adjust] 2. Does not interfere with the flying gantry / motion system 3. Does not interfere with common mods like z-axis covers or LED strips. Placement options: Personally, I think I'm going for this setup: Why? Well... I'm a sucker for symmetry. I already have the LED splitter on the right side, so I might as well design something for the left. You can see I'm already planning to add another thermistor, this one will measure chamber temperatures. I'll then average that reading with the thermistor on the SB to get a more accurate chamber temperature reading. I did order it from China, so it will be a while before it arrives. Dimensions are still unknown.

I initially had the very first released external 5160 Pro drivers but as I found them to bulky, I switched to the 5160T Pro drivers.

Wired in the coolant relays today, I need to complete the air plumbing and wire the solenoids. Wired the pendant e-stop in series with the Casa e-stop, I couldn't get the software e-stop to work with the pendant. I printed some wall-mount ER20 collets. It's nice that the Casa has a collet drawer, but in reality, when doing tool changes and opening and closing that drawer isn't very convenient. In my opinion, having a pendant is a must-have mod; moving the axis to line up the touch probe is significantly easier than using the RRF GUI.

I put a GDSTIME fan in my Stealthburner about 3 years & 3500 hours ago. Still running strong.

I'd say 200 to 500 hours before failure. It's not because the elevated temperatures did something to the bearings, it's because I'm using a hex wrench while the fan is running. Like when trying to get to the extruder to clean out a melted filament jam. One end of hex wrench then gets in between the fan blades during a moment of inattention, a rapid unscheduled disassembly, and it's time to take everything apart and find a replacement. I was pretty mad too. Those fans weren't cheap and I did it twice. Generally speaking though, so long as you aren't testing to see which wins in a fight between plastic fan blades and metal tools, those fans are reliable and you don't need to replace them for years. If they're going to fail, it's either going to be in the first few hours or you're set for a long while. If you're going to replace them, it's mainly because they're starting to rattle and becoming very annoying. Not from outright failure.

The only fans I have had die were cheap ones. The old Creality Ender fans I think a few died on me, and one was a Winsinn 4010 ball bearing fan from Amazon that lasted about 18mnths. There was no blob of death though. In my experience if there isn't enough cooling the hotend will just clog. Isn't a blob of death usually caused by hotend leakage or maybe by a part detatching from the build plate and sticking to the hotend? I bought some Sunon 4010 fans 4 years ago and all still work. I still have a bunch spare because none have stopped working.