Leaderboard

For those interested - a KlipperScreen add on for the Box Turtle running AFC software. Github repository:

This seems like a good place to comment on the new Klipper 0.13 update! https://www.klipper3d.org/Releases.html Klipper 0.13 has some neat new features... but will it crash various MCUs like the Klipper 0.11 > 0.12 did? For me, No, it does not. Victim #1 - Voron 0.2 with RPi4, BTT Pico on USB and BTT EBB36 on CAN via U2C: Went from an earlier version of Klipper 0.12 to 0.13.0.51 with no issues and remained operable with the Pico and the EBB36 still running 0.12 firmware. The Katapult-equipped EBB36 successfully flashed to 0.13 after doing a make menuconfig and reflash. The Pico reflashed by USB without issue. Victim #2 - Voron 2.4 with RPi4, BTT Octopus1.1 on USB and a Mellow SB2040 on CAN via U2C: Went from the latest version of Klipper 0.12 to 0.13.0.51 with no issues and remained operable with the SB2040 and the Octopus still running 0.12 firmware. The Katapult-equipped SB2040 successfully flashed to 0.13 after doing a make menuconfig and reflash. The Octopus reflashed by SD card without issue. So, it seems that the latest Klipper 0.13 is a relatively "safe"-ish major upgrade from 0.12. MCUs must still be manually configured and reflashed which is probably a good idea or even necessary as make menuconfig appears to have a new option enabled by default, "Optimize stepper code for 'step on both edges' "... I left this enabled , does anyone know what this is for? By the way, SHAPER_CALIBRATE does a whole new sweeping function... the toolhead now sweeps back and forth maybe 50mm while the vibration frequencies increase as before... on the V2.4 the results were slightly different with X going from MZV@57hz to [email protected] and Y going from [email protected] to [email protected]...

This could be a handy mod, the configuration is done in KlipperScreen.conf. moonraker_host: 127.0.0.1 is the printer that the screen is installed on. The IP address of the printer you want to add is listed below. When the printer boots, it shows you which printer you want to access. If you want to return to the printer select screen, use the double arrow.

There's some wonderful new filaments on the block... Fiberon by Polymaker! So far, I've tried two of them... PET-CF17 and PPS-CF10 Both of these filaments are very stiff, temperature resistant and dimensionally stable. They are also considered abrasive filaments, requiring the use of hardened nozzles. Here's my findings: PET-CF17 Fiberon PET-CF17 is a good choice if you have a standard hotend with a conventional Thermistor, rated up to 300C. Prints come out well at 270C though the surface finish wasn't great for me with a 0.6mm nozzle. The filament is quite brittle and needs a gentle filament path with no sharp bends. Warping is absolutely not an issue and prints are dimensionally stable and quite strong. The strength and heat resistance can be improved with post-print annealing at the cost of added brittleness. Like most filaments, PET-CF17 will burn if ignited.... it does not self extinguish either. This is not a cheap filament, going for about twice that of common filaments. (currently about $25usd for 500grams) PPS-CF10 Fiberon PPS-CF10 is a great choice if you have a high temperature hotend with thermistor / thermocouple / what have you/ rated to at least 350c. I upgraded to Revo High Temperature PT1000 which is rated to 400C. As with the PET-CF17, the surface finish was poor at 0.6 but pretty decent at 0.4 with a tiny bit of stringing.... perhaps some settings changes might help. Again the filament is brittle and easily snapped, maybe slightly less so than PET-CF17. Again, absolutely no warping and parts are dimensionally stable and quite strong. Post-print annealing can improve strength and temperature resistance (to 250C!). Breaking a part does not seem to favor layer lines when printed at 330C . If you drop a part, it sounds metallic! And, here is why it is my new favorite: This stuff does not ignite! I cannot get it to even start burning a little with an open flame... it just melts and smokes a bit. PPS-CF10 is very strong, has great layer adhesion, great dimensional stability, very high temperature and chemical resistance and all for the low, low cost of roughly quintuple that of common filaments! (currently about $70usd for 500grams). Sign me up for more because I cannot conceive of printing ANYTHING to do with a 3D printer Hotend or any structural part inside of an enclosed printer out of anything else at all. Printed parts do seem a bit lighter than ABS parts though I have no direct comparisons handy... yet. Comparisons are upcoming as I'm currently printing out Stealthburner Printhead parts. Because I was curious, I tested PPS-CF10 for electrical conductivity, and it does not conduct even when measured with a capacitor leakage tester rated to 1.6GΩ @27v, (that's 1.6 Giga ohms!) as opposed to a standard ohmmeter's range of 50MΩ at maybe 9v, which likewise reads "infinite" resistance. Happy Printing!

The color scheme for this build is military jungle camo. I opted to source the parts for this build and also to utilize parts I have available including the parts I did not use from the V2.4 kit. I used 2020 for the frame to accommodate the 15mm THK rail and standard 1515 for the build plate mount and the X gantry. As I learned from the first build (Mods as I go), I am now just printing parts as I need them so I can make modifications as needed or desired. This V0 frame is 470mm tall without the hat and 270mm wide. TR8x8 lead screw and coupling to the motor. The weight of the Z with the HSR15 bearings really makes it heavy but at the same time makes me even more curious if it would work Hmmm... I have some new Nema 17 motors on hand (StepperOnline 45Ncm 12-24V) so I will try them first and see. My question is what board can I use that can accommodate 3A (for LDO 42STH48-2504AH just in case) but small enough to fit the V0. Thanks in advance for your inputs.

Mellow has assembled a pendant for the Millennium Machine, Milo V1.5 works with the Fly CDYV3 and the BTT Scylla motherboards. Milo Pendant They've done a nice job of making a single circuit board from all the components needed in this mod and flashed the Arduino with the pendant software. I will change the cabling to the Scylla motherboard and add a strain relief to the pendant case. They could have made a better effort in that aspect. I'll also confirm the wiring to the Scylla I/O connector when I receive the pendant.

Keri, when I tried first "defining" the PT1000 with three resistance/temp values, then declaring that defined thermistor in the configuration, it gave Klipper a fit. Wasn't until I got rid of the definition and declaration, and simply stuck "PT1000" in sensor_type and 2200 for pullup resistor, exactly as midmadn said, that things started working better. Apparently when you try to tell Klipper something it already knows, it gets testy! I can see how that jumper works - - slick way to implement different resistor values for different thermistors! I don't think such strict accuracy is required for quality prints; likely using a PT1000 for printing with plastics is overkill, like using a shotgun to deal with mosquitoes, given that printing temp ranges stated for any given filament are closer to ballpark estimates than to three decimal-place precision figures. I'll forget about the precision and just take advantage of the greater range. Yeah.... this is exactly the kind of rabbit-hole I'm far too prone to get sucked into! I get caught up in the technical side of it and forget about the 'diminishing returns' aspect. It's great fun when you finally figure things out and everything works, but if it makes no practical difference in the end, it's just for fun (or "funstration," as my partner-in-crime likes to call it, given the dearth of accurate and *complete* information.) I think consumer/hobbyist-level 3D printing is still in the "wild-west' stage, much like phonographs were back in the day, when each manufacturer did their own thing, records played at different speeds for different makers, etc - - took quite some time for any industry-wide standards to become established. Still, this printer is serving it's purpose; I spent three decades learning to troubleshoot and repair some fairly complex equipment, and hated the thought of losing those hard-won skills in retirement. For me it's more about tinkering with the technology than actually printing useable and/or fun stuff.

One last mod to finish up the project. Clicky-Clacky Door Mod. And... The printer is now in my office and printing beautifully. Printed parts... These were printed on my VzBot. Material Polymaker ABS Black, 5 perimeters, 5 top, 5 bottom and 30% cubic infill, no supports, no brim. Bed 110, HE 240, Outer walls and top surfaces 200mm/s 5K accel. All other walls infill etc. 250mm/s 10K accel. Travel = 800mm/s 20K accel. Print time = <3hrs I put all this print info up here because I'm curious to see how fast others are printing ABS. And of course, the quality is not bad.

Just announced on discord and posted to printables. Yet another mmu. These guys have got to stop tempting me to build things! Link to HTLF

Welcome to the forum! You found the right (wrong?) hobby! 3D printing is not just a rabbit hole in itself, but a rabbit-hole-generating endeavor.

I have been running my 2 Voron 2.4, a 300 mm and a 350 mm, for a few years now with excellent results and minor updates/upgrades, like Klicky probe, Release 2 updates, part cooling 5015 fan, Nevermore filter and some cosmetic changes. It is also time to replace some plastic parts, deep clean and grease the linear rails, check belts and pulleys etc. The 300 mm Voron 2.4r2 (aka Voron-1) is running great for about five years now with the above upgrades and minor maintenance, so it was the first one to get an upgrade and maintenance. Stealthburner with LGX Lite v2; originally full size LGX. Reuse the Mosquito hotend with new heater and thermistor, and Convert from conventional cables to CAN network and finally go from Klicky probe to CNC Tap system. After rails serviced, new plastics printed and all the new parts for the Stealthburner, including LEDs, EBB etc. put together, the Voron-1 is back in service and working great! The CNC Tap system works great and love the simplicity of the CAN network; four cables! The cable chains look empty now! So it is time to service and update/upgrade the 350 mm Voron (aka Voron-2). But, I am not too happy with the part cooling performance of the Stealthburner, especialy try to print PLA fast, so I started researching other solutions. Of course, CPAP turbine and hose is the top contender for supplying part cooling air. Then I found the wonderful Github site of sneakytreesnake and his not Voron mainstream head CrownCooler. Unfortunately, is designed for Orbiter with a Rapido head. I have a Mosquito and a LGX Lite V2; so here we go to Fusion360! The existing projects I will be using are: CrownCooler (modified) Voron CPAP with muffler from Flaigenstool Engineering (modified for TPU gaskets) V2.4-Aire from @VoronManiac

Finally finished the CPAP air supply system and the noise levels, no numbers, just comparing with my other standard Voron Stealthburner, are satisfactory; see below. I need to set up the umbilical "holders" and music wire before starting calibrations and tests. The motor dome may look massive, but it is only 90 mm thick and 165 mm diameter at the widest point. The hatched area it becomes 5% Gyroid Infill that I will assume has excellent acoustic suppression properties. I used TPE 85A to create all the gaskets, and they made a big difference on noise redaction due to air leaks without them. Btw, the air intake muffler is a modified VzBot v2 muffler but using two "tune" pipes in a single housing and added gaskets. The original design was "whistling" from the air leaks! This thing puts out so much more air that I cannot see using more than 40%; we will see soon

@mvdveer Inspired, multiple projects at one time, so why not start another one I had four Artillery X1s that I no longer used. No matter how modded they were, they never printed quality parts like the Trident and V2. I dismantled them and salvaged usable parts. It will be a little oddball since I'll use most of the X1 extrusion, so I may need to alter some parts to fit. Extrusion consists of 2040 and 2060, I use the stepper motors and leadscrews, and I have a spare BTT Octopus with 2209 mounted in one of the X1 and the power supply, so I'm using that as well. I have a BTT U2C for Canbus and a Klipper Expander for caselighting. I'll use TAP that I removed from V2 for initial setup, then convert over to Beacon. Started printing parts, Spartan Obsibian Black Sparkle and Esun Peak Green

A bit of progress, extrusion cut, drilled and assembled.

Toned down acceleration—it was too aggressive. UI is growing on me, and the annoyances are fading. I feel more connected to my printer now. And finally, I’ve got a slicer with tree supports

Bodean here from North Carolina! No I'm not a Duke fan or Tarheel fan, lol. I'm retired and I just started this hobby about two months ago. I have a MK4, P1S, SV08, and a Centari Carbon on the way. Also currently trying to decide if I'm building a Trident or 2.4 or maybe both then a zero. Definitely looking forward to the build though. Appreciate this site and the whole Voron community, makes things much less complicated.

We can all count on @mvdveer to build whatever new project comes along. He's an addict. I'm not as bad. I went from being aware of 3d printing and that it was really difficult and fiddly to get anything to finding out about the Prusa and Voron (among others) in the same weekend. I jumped in with a Prusa Mini kit, and the moment that was complete I started looking at sourcing a Trident. I think the Trident would be the easiest Voron to start with. The V0 is smaller, but because of that the build is fiddly and finicky.

Update! All printed parts for the head (minus the ECAS of course!): On the printer: ...and from underneath: Need to wire the CAN cable to the U2C, CPAP motor and 1st run soon.

Yup, that sounds about right for the Voron. I'll try squeezing another K or two out over the weekened. Thanks. That's been my experience as well. I experimented with the wall printing order in Orca Slicer. While not perfect I did get better prints overall using Inner/Outer/Inner over the default Inner/Outer. In the past, I never paid too much attention to overhangs because they were generally OK-ish or good enough and got the job done. Now I want a bit more surface quality. So, Rabbit Hole it is... I'll give the Torture Egg a try and see if I can get some improvement.

I'm running sensorless, so no Y stop switch. I've got 4 motor wires in an umbilical from the centre of the gantry down to the hole in the baseplate.

Mod it to a horizontal chain mod - takes 10 minutes (not including printing the parts). Will also free up space in Y and prevent the toolboard from hitting the cable chain: My Voron 350 My Voron 300 Or you can do a horizontal Z umbilical - for me that was too much effort for little gain. (Have to re-wire and crimp the two motor leads) This is from hartk:

Functional head completed and ready to test. Some stats: Extrusion nozzle to linear rail carriage 28 mm (Stealth 28.10 mm) Overall width 84.966 mm (Stealth 85.216) Height from nozzle to Extruder lever 105.357 mm (Stealth 145.063 mm). 3 printed parts for everything; no cosmetic or LED/camera mounts yet! Need to add the EBB36 CAN holding frame and wire everything before for 1st run. Some images: It's amazing how "clean" it looks with the 2 wire chains gone! Hopefully, it actually works too! Cheers!

OK, weight results are in... and inconclusive! A Stealthburner X Carriage with all brass inserts installed: Generic ABS , 36 grams Fiberon PPS-CF10, 33 grams A Stealthburner Revo printhead with all brass inserts installed: Generic ABS, 48 grams Fiberon PPS-CF10, 54 grams There was apparently some difference in print settings in the otherwise identical parts. So as a whole, I'd call it a wash. It's probably not worth the effort to reprint the ABS ones with more up-to-date settings, and certainly not worth the brass inserts. added: A test Orca Cube came out at 30.00mm/ X, 30.08mm/ Y and 30.02mm/ Z. The screw plug is a tight fit but turns all the way in. Surface finish is good if you like the textured look and feel.

Ill never get through this if i log my actual thought process and steps, so ill keep it shorter as much as possible. Im stuck waiting on parts for the gantry so jumped to the toolhead to get it done, this wont be the actual toolhead when the build is further along since the final one isnt released yet and will be the toolhead that will really change things, its all hush hush at the moment but its coming. toolhead A4T by Tas at Armchair Engineering Board - LDO nitehawk 36 (temporary for setup and dialing in printer) Hotend - Phaetus dragon ace volcano CHCB series w/ 100watt heater cartridge Nozzle - only west3d undertakers, theres no reason to ever run anything else and they last forever so a real no brainer. Fans - Always Deltas when i counts. Extruder - WWBMG Filament - 3dxtech ezPCCF About this toolhead, Tas did a great job on designing this one, its a really nice build and fairly easy even with finicky plastic to print, if you need a new one or want to replace your dated SB for something with decent cooling and a really broad compatibility list of hotends and extruders give this a try. I really like the nitehawk board and would keep it if it played well out in the heat but I dont think its gonna like the chamber temps north of 70c once im paneled and insulated but for setup you cant beat it, so much easier than CANbus but back to straight umbilical ill be going in the near future. Installed the bed fans as well, I decided to try a new approach rather than the usual 4 5015s, these are Artic 120mm 12v hardware controlled pwm fans, I made up a little splitter for the connections as well but havent got it done yet, these fans are silent, super low profile and move a ton of air. Started wiring, really close to powering it up now. Parts finally arrived for the next step. Gantry - Monolith 2wd 9mm belts Steppers - steppersonline 17hs19-2504s-h-v1 2.5amp Pulleys - genuine Gates Bearings - West3d berzerker flanged 695 Belts - Gates G2 EPDM 9mm This took some time to complete, there is no manual or setup guide just a configuration generator and a bom the rest is on you. What I will say about this and with building . vorons in general is if you actually are reading this and trying to figure out how to build a really good printer or just building your first Voron, Discord is your friend , and the amount of knowledge there is staggering if you know where to look. If you want a bunch of nonsense and horrible advice from overnight experts than by all means ask your question on facebook or reddit but you will get mostly bad advice, answers or criticisms on parts of your photo for items you arent even asking about and typical nonsense or drop into the voron discord and open a help ticket and get your problem solved by people who really know whats up, for me its always some little mistake in the cfg that will take seconds to diagnose. If I didnt have Discord for help I would never have finished this build and if i did finish it wouldnt run nearly as well as its about to soon. Helpful Places if your stuck or just need advice. obviously discord, channels - Armchair Heavy Industries Monolith Doomcube VoronDesign West3dprinting Parts for monolith need to be incredibly strong due to the extreme belt tension so again i used the pccf with 12 walls and 12 top and bottom , I spent a good amount of time making sure the filament was tuned perfectly or as good as i could anyway so that my tolerances were spot on. I also decided to go 2wd instead of AWD for now , im in pretty much over my head on this build and dealing with AWD just seemed to be to much but I do plan on upgrading as soon as wayne releases the cnc kits for monolith. Starting to look like a printer now. I also added a couple neopixel strips under the bed to light up the electronics bay when i need to see. After the usual headaches writing the config and a few help tickets pulled in the voron discord and triple checking my wiring I did the ole hold your breath and push the button, no magic smoke, lights cam on and it homed, well it homed backwards and changing the dir pin didnt fix it because after all my checking I still got the x and y steppers swapped somehow, easy fix and it started to home and stopped immediately as expected before tuning the sensorless homing, if you dont run sensorless I can only stare blankly and ask why? I havent had an endstop on a printer in a few years and will never as long as the drivers support it, just makes life easier. It lives. It homed, and it printed a quick voron cube very nicely and then I started thinking. Something was missing.

Many, many thanks @TitusADuxass! That's what I was looking for! Size matters when it comes to sound! I have not tried the VZbot intake muffler yet, but I thought it was too small of a sound chamber to do any significant reduction. Anyway, I needed something to start, and many other solutions are using external air which will be great for PLA but not good for ABS, ASA etc. Eventually, I need to find/make a solution that uses a baffle that automatically draws the correct air for the filament used. The only other "muffler" I have found CPAP Muffler System - C.M.S that it had potential but I needed something quick because I am working on the completely new head and needed a quick print tot test it. The designer of the CMS muffler had some good points and I will try eventually: Enclose the turbine housing in a sound deadening material. "Soft" mount the turbine as I am sure is not balanced at high RPMs.... Cheers!

Not a Voron item but a handy item to have on hand. Printed this m3Sorter_bottom_gridfinity.stl for the top to fit. https://www.printables.com/model/874548-amazing-gridfinity-m3-bolt-sorter And this one for a greater assortment of bolt sizes. https://www.printables.com/model/993430-gridfinity-m3-m4-m5-m6-mx-bolt-sorter

I've been using it for a few of my main filaments. It does improve the first layer. I often had pinholes between walls and infill on the first layer when using a constant PA value. Beyond that, I don't really notice much difference. Calibration is time-consuming. It's not too different from a regular PA test, but you have to do it at least 12 times under different conditions, then use a spreadsheet to prep the parameter block. There's a batch mode that sets up multiple calibrations, but each test area is just a standard PA calibration print. Overall I think there's something useful here, but I suspect that the model doesn't really need to be so complex. There are clear patterns in the test results that I don't think the current model takes any account of. (It seems to just be doing separate interpolations along two different axes.) I would bet that if we could collect enough calibration data, the model could be simplified to the point where it would only require three or four test prints. It wouldn't be as accurate as the current model, but I bet it would reach the 80% mark.

Just in case someone want to experiment, here's the Modified bed mount stl for THK HSR15. The bed plate extrusion and mounting specs are maintained. Z Motor Lead Screw Bearing Mount.stlRear Bed Mount Right (Modified).stlRear Bed Mount Left (Modified).stlZ Motor Mount.stlZ Endstop Mount (modifies).stlLead Screw Bearing Cap.stl

Finished up the skirts which took some work, the doomcube stl files on the github are not modeled for a 300mm machine, theres 250 and 350 and theres two different front styles depending on the door cfg. The old ones left the skirts back 20mm like if you have added a clicky clack door on your machine and havent redone the skirts. I luckily found a complete cad file for the entire machine that included the new front skirts with the additional 20mm ledge and was able to hack my way thru with fusion to make them the right size for my machine. Electronics up next. So i decided to remodel the layout of the electronics bay that Voron uses and almost everyone else, as well as use the inverted electronics bay mod, honestly it shouldn’t be a mod and should be adopted as how it should be done since it makes everything easier down the road. I wanted this build clean and tidy with very little wire showing as well as mounting the electronics perpendicular to the din rails rather than parallel and divide everthing like a tv dinner, each item has its own place. I also flipped the build plate drag chain to the opposite side, because i can and because the layout lends itself to wires running up the right side rather than left. Rails greased and installed, Berserker mgn9s from West3d, as well as titanium backers. Motors for zed are LDO 300mm steppers with teflon coated lead screws along with the spacer mod to drop the end of the the leadscrews like 12mm, I did this on my trident in order to run the mjolnir toolhead from armchair engineering but for this its 100% for vanity, it just looks better. The z linear rails are mgn12h rather than the usual mgn9, yes it looks beefier and no it is not needed but I had rails lying around so why not save a buck or two. The build plate is the Mandala Roseworks superflat magbed, this was also lying in my ridiculous pile of spare parts due to its unwillingness to play nicely with beacon, I took it off my Trident but wasnt about to buy another plate again even though this build was going to run beacon as well. I honestly have no idea why anyone doesnt run beacon or even the carto but to each their own, I will never build another printer that doesn’t unless something new comes out that’s better. To utilize the build plate I came up with the idea to print some inserts the same dimensions as the magnets in the plate to begin with and cover them with a magnetic sheet, I used PC which I hope holds up to the heat planned but for now it worked perfect and a chunck of cash saved. Electronics Meanwell LRS-200-24 Raspberry pi 4b Octopus Pro f446 1.1 btt 2209 drivers Meanwell LRS 25-5 Since im writing this in the future several things are going to change before we get current but i will write to match the photos I had a different plan for the voltage and drivers up to this point but decided to stick with what i knew rather than have to figure out 48v and 5160 drivers and the setup associated with going that route. I have only built one other trident before this several years ago and though ive modded it to death I really dont have the technical knowledge to do some of the more exotic mods so I opted for the easier safer route so i could actually finish this someday. I designed the mounting system for the wire channels and modified the cad for the wire channels themselves so that it would all fit nicely as well as Frankensteining all the electronic mounts since nothing really fit, of course i would have done a few things differently now but I think it came out ok and besides it will give me something to change later .

I would say that the Revo PZ Probe is more like the Beacon 3d in tapping mode in that it is solid and, as such, needs to stop much more quickly when the nozzle hits the bed, or damage will be done. This means that the filament is not effectively pushed out of the way, which is what I was trying to convey with my comments.

That's handy! If one of my displays ever dies, this would be a great option. Both my V2.4s are right next to each other.

Then you're doing it right. That's what this forum is here for. I jumped into my Voron project with virtually no electronics or electrical experience. I dabbled in RC cars way back when (did just enough to plug components together and make a couple of nasty but functional solder joins to the motor) and did some electrical assembly in a previous job. The Discord channel and this forum were huge helps.

Okay. I've wired it according to the information you gave me. Thank you for that. I pulled the G-SP, V-EN and V-DIR jumpers, and moved the spindle speed jumper to AO. If I did it correctly, I changed the P00.01 parameter to 4, and after restarting it that setting stayed like I would expect it to. The only thing I don't understand fully is the switches between the Fwd/Rev to XGnd. Do I need a physical switch or is this done on the Scylla board? When I start the Wizard (G8000) and it goes to turn on the spindle it doesn't respond so I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. My apologies I'm not really an electronics or electrical person but I've been in Manufacturing for over 20 yrs, and I thought it would be cool to have a machine to play with at home. That's why I jumped into this project without any real experience on the electronics side. Also, I did join the Millenium Machines discord channel and have abused the search function like a mad man. I dropped a comment in the #btt-scylla-v1 channel about the wiring for my VFD but didn't receive a response. However, after a google search, I found this forum and more specifically your thread. Thanks again.

I've used their filament for the last two years, mostly the ABS Performance, which has a matte finish. As they suggest, drying the filament makes a world of difference; it also prevents oozing out of the nozzle. ABS is moisture sensitive. Therefore, our recommendation is to dry the material for 3 - 4 hours at < 65 °C (higher temperatures will melt the glue in the spool). This practice ensures bubble-free, high-strength prints. In our experience, the best results are achieved when printing small (< 1000 cm3) parts at 260 – 280 °C, on a heated bed at 110 °C. An enclosure is ideal for larger prints for good layer adhesion and minimal distortion. I used two print temperatures, depending on the filament colour 260C or 270C °c with a bed temperature of 105C. Fan off for first layer and fan on at 35% on second layer and 75% fan on overhangs. No warpage with these settings. Matter3D Filament

I would give Hector at Fabreeko a call. He has a large format laser and can cut custom panels. Printed Solid also makes custom panels but they need a DXF file from you. TBH, making the panels yourself isn't any harder than cutting a piece of plywood, drilling a hole or two and cutting out a few notches.

Built the rear bellows from this Discord member Discord Bellows Link . I've uploaded the modified STL and Step files Bellow2 - with holes v1.stepBellow2 v1.stepBellow2 - with holes v1.stlBellow2 v1.stl Make the side bellows so it fits between the V of the top bellow. Shown is the slit of the side below. The side bellows installed. I'm looking at modifying the Y-axis transition bracket to fit the rear bellows The bad news in order to secure the rear bellows to the X/Y carrier is the X axis assembly needs to be removed. You need to remove the toolsetter, remove the hand wheel, remove the leadscrew lock sleeve, disconnect the X stepper wiring, remove the X stepper motor and loosen the grub screw of the stepper to TR8 bushing, pull the stepper of the TR8 lead screw, remove x axis end stop, remove screws from the X axis drag chain end link. Remove the X axis bearing block fromt he extrusion, pull the X axis extrusion assembly of the linear bearings, install linear bearing dummy rails.

Here is a link to program the VFD

I've been building this project for a long time, and a few followers and I have been anxious to see the mill make some chips! I didn't want to start cutting without having an Y-axis bellow solution to keep chips out of the leadscrew area. I found two types of bellows from two different Discord members, one for the front bellows and the other for the rear one. The front bellows are 3D printed parts a nice feature is it fits over the existing Y axis bearing block and the Y end stop switch is now covers to eliminate any chips reaching it. You’ll also need to tweak the endstop lever bend it toward the Z tower about 1/8”. Front Bellows Bellow Milo.mp4 Still working on the mounting of the rear bellows. I've also installed 24V LEDs in the Mill compartment and electronic bay.

Found this handy tool to calibrate your steps. Use an M4 nut and screw to secure the caliper to the tool. Steps Calibration Tool

Music to my ears - there are other like me, Im no longer alone. Hey wifey - come read this!

I have a Rapido 2F UHF with a PT1000 on my new LDO V2.4 I'm also running the Nighthawk 36 toolhead board. This is what I ended up with in my printer.cfg --------------------------------------------------- heater_pin: nhk:gpio9 sensor_type: PT1000 sensor_pin: nhk:gpio29 pullup_resistor: 2200 ---------------------------------------------------- Upon printing a temp tower - my findings are exactly the same as my other machines with lower grade thermistors. Best temp for Polymaker and Ambrosia ASA/ABS 255-260. Therefore I am satisfied with the settings and performance of the PT1000. No rabbit holes needed. Jack

Looking good. Now to hijack your hijack a bit. When I built my Trident I started out with those little jumpers on the controller board. It was suggested to me on the Voron Discord that instead of doing that, I should run a pair of wire runs direct from the power supply. https://www.teamfdm.com/forums/topic/231-chris-250-trident-journey/?do=findComment&comment=915&_rid=417

I don't want to hijack your build so I will just drop the one of the inverted bay on a 350mm bed sized frame before wiring.

Yup... I'm thinking the same thing but... I figured I'd throw it against the proverbial wall to see if it would stick.

You could also name it "Stretch"

Gridfinity is awesome. Zack is a mad genius. I also fell down his Hextraction rabbit hole. That will keep a printer busy for a while.

The only issue with this as far as I am concerned is that you would need some filament rewinder mechanism, which in theory increases the footprint. That's why I like the Box Turtle - the spool rewinder is built into the design. Some options that are suggested are: Filamentalist which now has its own drybox/enclosure Auto Rewinder or Reprack Respooler

I have tested arachne and it works now. Also big thanks for providing fix stl file. We have a great 3d community,help is provided for those who needs it. Thank you all

From the ArmoredTurtle Discord. It looks like it was designed as a joke, but it ended up working decently.

Frame - x545 x y545 x z760 Build volume - 300x300x300 2020, 2040 and 4040 extrusions machined by dllpdf mfg and powder coated in ground up fairie wings. The extrusions took quite awhile to receive due to high demand on a small company , they make really nice stuff so it was worth the wait.