Nozzle scrubber

[TitusADuxass]

Ladies & Gents,

I am in the need of a Beacon compatible nozzle scrubber for my v2.4.

What are your recommendations. 

Danke

Paul 

[Methos]

This one works well enough on my V2.4 with a Beacon
https://www.printables.com/model/201999-nozzle-scrubber-with-a-little-bucket-for-voron-24

I just found this which seems very cool and is my next build

https://www.printables.com/model/1371713-goose-belt-purger-gbp-automatic-belt-purge-system

 

[McCosch]

Hi, I've put something togetherclean_nozzle.cfg for you; maybe you can use it. I've implemented it myself and it works. However, it can still be optimized and improved.

Clean.zip

[TitusADuxass]

1 hour ago, Methos said:

This one works well enough on my V2.4 with a Beacon
https://www.printables.com/model/201999-nozzle-scrubber-with-a-little-bucket-for-voron-24

Thanks, but I'm not keen on bringing a wire brush into close proximity of a Beacon PCB. I'm looking for a silicon pad version, preferably one that utilises the Bambu Lab silicon pad.

[Mr.Shaky]

In a similar boat with a Cartographer probe; it came with the silicone pad but offered no guidance on placement or mounting.

I ultimately found and printed this, but haven't done any configuration yet.  https://www.printables.com/model/882364-new-version-adjustable-gantry-mounted-nozzle-seal

[sfxfreak]

https://www.printables.com/model/659369-voron-24-purge-bucket-silicon-brush-wiper

Works very well. it's not as good as a wire brush (still useful if you can get it exactly on the level with your plate and just dip the nozzle into it for cleaning), but this is a very close second. 

[Penatr8tor]

@TitusADuxass

I modified my old scrubber geometry so that I could stick one of the bambu silicone pads like the one from @sfxfreak above.

The one he has listed should work nicely assuming you have nothing in the way.

 

[TitusADuxass]

33 minutes ago, sfxfreak said:

https://www.printables.com/model/659369-voron-24-purge-bucket-silicon-brush-wiper

Works very well. it's not as good as a wire brush (still useful if you can get it exactly on the level with your plate and just dip the nozzle into it for cleaning), but this is a very close second. 

Oh I like that one. 

Thanks

[DanPin]

I am confused why a scrubber would be needed.

My assumption is that it can only be used when the nozzle is at high temp.

It seems like you can't use it during bed leveling since the nozzle must be cold/off.

Then anytime the nozzle heats, there is slight oozing but since the plastic is melted, it won't affect the nozzle height when printing is started.

What am I missing, and how would I know if I should use one?

Thanks for educating me.

 

Edited February 18 by DanPin

[TitusADuxass]

I level the bed with the nozzle at 180.

I have found that post print, the nozzle oozes and develops a little tit of filament on the end.

This leads to homing errors "sample spread too large"

A nozzle wipe would clean the offending bit away.

[TitusADuxass]

46 minutes ago, DanPin said:

I am confused why a scrubber would be needed.

My assumption is that it can only be used when the nozzle is at high temp.

It seems like you can't use it during bed leveling since the nozzle must be cold/off.

You can level the bed with a hot nozzle, both the bed and the nozzle should be close to the printing temperature.  Really, they should both be at temp.

[sfxfreak]

22 minutes ago, TitusADuxass said:

You can level the bed with a hot nozzle, both the bed and the nozzle should be close to the printing temperature.  Really, they should both be at temp.

I would actually disagree with you here about both being at temp. Bed - yes, totally, but not the nozzle. 

The nozzle won't thermally expand beyond a certain point. I can't remember the exact temp, but it was something just around 100C (may be totally wrong, I just don't remember now). What I do remember and have been using for years is 150C for nozzle probing, because at that temp - you don't damage your bed with too hot a nozzle, but it's high enough that nozzle scrubbers will do their job properly. 

Granted, this is a problem mostly for people using bed stickers like PEI, PEX, etc - not powder coated PEI sheets. Those are pretty resilient regardless of temps. 

But if you try to nozzle probe a bed with PEI or PEX at temps over 200C - you will quickly see big degradation in quality on the spots used to probe. 

[Penatr8tor]

2 hours ago, DanPin said:

What am I missing, and how would I know if I should use one

There are a number of good reasons to have any number of nozzle cleaning devices as well as good opportunities to use them and not just for probing. 

[mvdveer]

I have the same nozzle scrubber on the 2.4's but with the Bambu labs silicone brush. Whan I get home'Ill look for the adapter that fits this design, so no fusion work required

 

[TitusADuxass]

16 hours ago, sfxfreak said:

I would actually disagree with you here about both being at temp. Bed - yes, totally, but not the nozzle. 

The nozzle won't thermally expand beyond a certain point. I can't remember the exact temp, but it was something just around 100C (may be totally wrong, I just don't remember now). What I do remember and have been using for years is 150C for nozzle probing, because at that temp - you don't damage your bed with too hot a nozzle, but it's high enough that nozzle scrubbers will do their job properly. 

Granted, this is a problem mostly for people using bed stickers like PEI, PEX, etc - not powder coated PEI sheets. Those are pretty resilient regardless of temps. 

But if you try to nozzle probe a bed with PEI or PEX at temps over 200C - you will quickly see big degradation in quality on the spots used to probe. 

I have found that probing with a hot nozzle rarely damages the my sheets to any noticeable degree. But, I change my my bed sheets nearly as often as my underwear.

[Penatr8tor]

No matter what... it all comes down to ooze control. I kept playing around with post print retraction until I have little to no plastic on the nozzle. But some filaments will ooze more than others so... for me it's just good insurance to do a physical wipe of the tip. For me the 150c probing temp does more to prevent ooze than it does mitigating build plate surface melting, although you could potentially get inaccurate readings... the touch pressure involved is extremely low.

[TitusADuxass]

1 hour ago, Penatr8tor said:

No matter what... it all comes down to ooze control. I kept playing around with post print retraction until I have little to no plastic on the nozzle. But some filaments will ooze more than others so... for me it's just good insurance to do a physical wipe of the tip. For me the 150c probing temp does more to prevent ooze than it does mitigating build plate surface melting, although you could potentially get inaccurate readings... the touch pressure involved is extremely low.

Post print retraction is something that I wasn't aware of. It sounds like I should be doing some reading.

[PFarm]

2 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

No matter what... it all comes down to ooze control.

Having dry filament makes a huge difference in preventing oozing. Moisture is what forces the filament to ooze.

[TitusADuxass]

1 hour ago, PFarm said:

Having dry filament makes a huge difference in preventing oozing. Moisture is what forces the filament to ooze.

My filament was at 20%

[Penatr8tor]

3 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

Post print retraction is something that I wasn't aware of. It sounds like I should be doing some reading.

So I don't know if this is an actual thing, but it is something I do. I have to check but, I'm retracting a good 3-4mm on my rapido based toolheads and 9mm on the VzBoT Goliath extruder. 

99% of the time there's zero ooze.

And my final secret...

Anti stick paint

[NikosSprocket]

12 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

No matter what... it all comes down to ooze control. I kept playing around with post print retraction until I have little to no plastic on the nozzle. But some filaments will ooze more than others so... for me it's just good insurance to do a physical wipe of the tip. For me the 150c probing temp does more to prevent ooze than it does mitigating build plate surface melting, although you could potentially get inaccurate readings... the touch pressure involved is extremely low.

Same here; especially TPU and TPE filaments will ooze, does not matter how dry is the filament. After heating up the nozzle to filament's melting specs. run a few cleaning passes over the brass brush. Still using the original brush design from the Klicky days!

I use CNC TAP 2, and they recommend not to exit 150 deg. C during the “tap” process. They claim anything above 180 can damage the PTFE films. On the other hand, I fully heat-up the nozzle before cleaning it.

Edited February 20 by NikosSprocket

[mvdveer]

@TitusADuxass Here are the files, I said I would upload.

Voron 2.4 Nozzle brush - Bambu labs Silicone pad

or

Voron 2.4 Nozzle brush - Silicone brush - Formbot Kit

[claudermilk]

I do an 18mm post-job retract for my Revos. That serves two purposes: 1) no ooze, and 2) filament swaps are simplicity as the end is already out of the nozzle, so I just press the Galileo lever & it comes right out. In fact, I no longer use my load & unload macros because this made them obsolete.

I also run the nozzle at 150C for preheating as suggested by the community. I no longer use the scrubber brush because with those two settings it's no longer needed.

 

[TitusADuxass]

I am correct in think that the retraction command would be part of the PRINT_END macro that I have in my Start_Stop macro?

At present I have - G1 E-4.0 F3600 which doesn't seem a lot compared to @claudermilk who has 18mm.

Incidentally, I had something to print for a work colleague. She wanted 10 of each each in ABS black, white and grey.

The grey did not ooze, the black oozed a small amount. The white dribbled more that I do after 4 pints!

[mvdveer]

10 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

PRINT_END macro that I have in my Start_Stop macro?

Correct, but can also be inserted into the start macro. With multicolour printing this is part of my Blobifier routine. AS the filament has to be cut, 18mm in my instance is waaaay to much. 

 

10 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

At present I have - G1 E-4.0 F3600

Ditto, same here

 

10 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

The grey did not ooze, the black oozed a small amount. The white dribbled more that I do after 4 pints!

Color does affect the melting point of the filament, therefore in Orca slicer you can set retraction per filament in settings override. A bit more for black and to stop the prostate problems in the white filament a bit more: