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Well that was fun (not).


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So, I thought it would be a good idea to fit my Orbiter O2S board to my v2.4!

Wrong! As soon as it switched on, it errored out - no comms to O2S. I'm sure this board is either cursed or it's a Monday morning job.

I put the Orbiter O2 board back in, switched on the printer and got the old favourite - klipper mismatches. So the Manta M8P & O2 needed reflashing.

The O2 was no issue but, the M8P was another story. Whilst trying to flash it, the boot switch fell out of the board. I tried putting the little metal disk from the switch into to the switch holder on the board. I couldn't get it to go into boot mode. I my fumbling I also managed to knock the reset button out of its holder! This basically renders my M8P useless.

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Anyway, long story short. I put a Octopus v1.1 and a Pi 5 2gb in. I also took the opportunity to put a CPAP cooling system on the Stealthburner.

The v2.4 is back up and running sweetly with a vastly improved print quality.

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ABS print - Right is with the standard Stealthburner, left is with the CPAP cooler.

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Edited by Titus A Duxass
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2 hours ago, Titus A Duxass said:

This basically renders my M8P useless.

I would not go so far. Before you scrap the board I would try to repair it. You need a soldering iron with a pencil like tip, some desoldering braid and a steady hand. These small buttons are not really made to press onto them. 🙂

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36 minutes ago, Repman said:

I would not go so far. Before you scrap the board I would try to repair it. You need a soldering iron with a pencil like tip, some desoldering braid and a steady hand. These small buttons are not really made to press onto them. 🙂

There's not a hope in hell of me achieving that!

My hands will never be steady enough. There is a local hero though. He does fiddly repairs for a small fee.

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I've replaced those switches many times, and have them in my parts stash.  I don't know where you are, but if you can get me the board, I'd be more than willing to replace them.  As I'm retired and don't need the money, all I would ask is that you pay shipping both ways.  I'm an Electrical Engineer by training but have spent most of my life doing electronic repair, mostly stereo equipment, in Gainesville, FL.  We could talk on the phone. if you'd like.

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13 minutes ago, billbrach said:

I've replaced those switches many times, and have them in my parts stash.  I don't know where you are, but if you can get me the board, I'd be more than willing to replace them.  As I'm retired and don't need the money, all I would ask is that you pay shipping both ways.  I'm an Electrical Engineer by training but have spent most of my life doing electronic repair, mostly stereo equipment, in Gainesville, FL.  We could talk on the phone. if you'd like.

Thanks for the kind offer, I'm Germany.....

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I've always kept my distance from controller boards that use Pi compute module clones on them. They tend to be where horror stories originate.

Interesting how things just work when you hook up an old tried and true Octopus with a real Raspberry Pi.

Glad you got it running like a champ @TitusADuxass

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26 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

I've always kept my distance from controller boards that use Pi compute module clones on them. They tend to be where horror stories originate.

Interesting how things just work when you hook up an old tried and true Octopus with a real Raspberry Pi.

Glad you got it running like a champ @TitusADuxass

I had the Manta m8p and CM4 on a CR10 S PRO V2 for two years with no problems. Now, I have then on a voron 2.4 and an Ender 5 plus core xy with no problems. Started with cb1 and threw the cb1 away. More recently a Manta M8P dropped motors 3,4 and 5. Had to get a new Manta.

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12 minutes ago, polyneutron said:

I had the Manta m8p and CM4 on a CR10 S PRO V2 for two years with no problems. Now, I have then on a voron 2.4 and an Ender 5 plus core xy with no problems. Started with cb1 and threw the cb1 away. More recently a Manta M8P dropped motors 3,4 and 5. Had to get a new Manta.

I don't think I would have bought another Manta after what you've experienced.

As for boards that piggyback a PI onto them, I can say that the LDO Leviathan with Pi5 I have in my 2.4 has been very stable with no firmware issues so far.

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My Cheetahs and Pi4s have been no issue either. My M8P with CB1 has also been great, minus the lack of USB ports - but extenders exist.

If I did it over with the Manta I would skip the CB1 and go straight to Pi though, although....it would be a waste and I'd just buy a separate board, IMO.

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6 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

I've always kept my distance from controller boards that use Pi compute module clones on them. They tend to be where horror stories originate.

Interesting how things just work when you hook up an old tried and true Octopus with a real Raspberry Pi.

Glad you got it running like a champ @TitusADuxass

Same here!

I built my 1st Voron with an Octopus and a Pi 4, and they have never failed me. On the other hand the builder's brain had failed many times! 😅

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7 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

I don't think I would have bought another Manta after what you've experienced.

As for boards that piggyback a PI onto them, I can say that the LDO Leviathan with Pi5 I have in my 2.4 has been very stable with no firmware issues so far.

I went with duet 3 6hc and the duet 1LC tool board. The scanning z probe was surface mount garbage. Drove me back to Manta. Now mellow fly v3 has can fd so a solid alternative to the scanning z probe. If Manta gives me any problems I will pull the duet off the shelf.

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11 hours ago, polyneutron said:

A person I know runs a printer farm and he hasn't updated kilper or anything else since version 5! He can't  afford problems with down time do to software. Nearly every machine he has runs klipper.

Yes, that would work if you're not doing hardware updates and the printers are meeting your requirements. 

But we're not (or at least most of us are not print farmes) and our printers are nearly always being tweaked/improved/destroyed.

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