Setup and calibration of a 0.6 nozzle. Oh, and my issues, lol.

[bdejong11129]

SO, my new revo kit came with a 0.6mm nozzle.  I have been sitting on it for some time, but recently, with a few large print projects, I thought, hey, let's give it a try.  

I started with simple things like temp tower, etc.  All of those are easy to understand and fairly basic.  The one thing that has me perplexed right now is the following. 

I ran the Flow calibration, the YOLO version and, dialed in for a smooth surface.  I then did a simple wall thickness test using a square primitive and vase mode.  Figuring that a single wall with a fixed wall setting would give me a measure of how the width was working.  However, that was only fixed by increasing the Flow ratio.  If I use the flow ratio from the YOLO test, then the walls are thin, if I use the value from a correct wall thickness then the YOLO test ends up terrible and way over extruded.  

What am I missing here?

[blackmonster69]

I've been trying to use a .6 nozzle since the beginning of time.... You need a degree in alchemy to use it apparently 

[jetcat]

Are you using a 0.20 layer height? I increased it to 0.33 and got more predictable flow rates & walls.

[bdejong11129]

I am using a 0.3 layer height as a starting value.  I will bump it up and give it another go. 

[fursphere]

I have not had a ton of luck with the Orca 'YOLO' method.   I usually use the legacy Pass1 / Pass2 method when setting up a new printer / new profile.  

Also, Orca seems to produce better results with 'Wall printer order = inner/outer/inner'

And there is some debate on if a 0.6 nozzle is even worth it over a 0.4 nozzle with a standard flow hotend / heater.  (See Prusa ditching the 0.6 on the Prusa XL and switching back to 0.4...).   I don't know where the 'tip over' flow point is where the 0.6 starts to mathematically make sense.

That said, i'm currently playing with a 0.6 nozzle on a Chube hotend.  lol

[bdejong11129]

It took me a few tries to really understand the yolo method.  Its all about the final circle.  If done correctly it does work. 

Edited November 6, 2025 by bdejong11129

[Durahl]

I for one like to print with a 0.40mm Nozzle but then bump most Line Widths up to 133% which allows me to reduce the Perimeter count from 4 down to 3 while still maintaining the same total Wall Width but reducing the time it takes to print. As far as I'm being told you can supposedly go up to 200% ( mostly depending on the Nozzle Orifice Geometry ) but at least up to 150% which would result in the output of a 0.60mm Nozzle.

[NikosSprocket]

 Also, check how friction free is the movement of the filament through the PTFE tube. Recently I updated my toolhead and introduced CPAP for part cooling, and I was getting great speeds and overhangs, but randomly there were sections of the print that "missing" filament. After some troubleshooting, I found out that the increased printing speeds have created a new problem. There is enough friction inside the PTFE tube that did not manifest itself, until I printed large objects (184 x 256 mm high) where the extruder needs to supply at high constant speed for prolong time (~20 mm/sec2) and any friction will show on the object. As per my post, Faster Printing requiring Filament Buffer feeding other people have noticed this.

Btw, all of the above is happening with a 0.4 nozzle! I cannot imagine how higher can/would be with a bigger nozzle. Also, I had to increase all hotend temperatures to about 15 to 20 deg. Celsius to get a nice flow at these higher extruding speeds.

Just as thought and good luck.

[GarthSnyder]

19 hours ago, bdejong11129 said:

I ran the Flow calibration, the YOLO version and, dialed in for a smooth surface.  I then did a simple wall thickness test using a square primitive and vase mode.  Figuring that a single wall with a fixed wall setting would give me a measure of how the width was working.  However, that was only fixed by increasing the Flow ratio.  If I use the flow ratio from the YOLO test, then the walls are thin, if I use the value from a correct wall thickness then the YOLO test ends up terrible and way over extruded. What am I missing here?

I think the problem is that you're doing thin-wall tests at all. My experience has been that thin-wall test prints always suggest flow rates that are too high. I know, it's hard to ignore thin-wall tests when 98% of calibration guides push you toward using them. And they seem so logical and quantitative. But...flow calibration is empirical. You want good looking prints with nice top surfaces and with no grating of the nozzle on the print. I don't think there's any substitute for printing a bunch of samples and eyeballing them.

 

Of course, thin-wall prints really do show variation with flow rate. I don't think the whole idea is necessarily bogus. It's just that formulas derived from the abstract extrusion model (with a cross-section consisting of a rectangle and two hemispheres for each trace) don't in fact give you the correct flow ratio. With enough data, I would bet that better formulas could be developed. I'm just not aware of anyone having worked on that yet.

[3DCoded]

Hi!,

 

If the YOLO calibration values are too little for walls, what you can do is set your flow ratio to the proper value for your walls, then set your top surface flow ratio to something like 0.95.

[sleepster217]

Curious question I got some nozzles from ally express various sizes I have been trying to get a .8 to work as I am doing some large prints as well and cannot get the calabrations to work get all kinds of yuck as well is trying to work but not doing the right stuff has any one got a profile that works or is workable I got the current one from a friend of mine from his k1 default .8 profile and been trying to calibrate from that using a 2.4 voron with a rapido 2 uhf printing petg pic below is retraction 0 to 4mm .2 spacing but none seem to be any good

[fursphere]

Print a temp tower.   An UHF hotend will overcook filament pretty easy - you might need to turn the temp down lower than you'd expect.  

For example, I'm using to printing PLA around 225/230.    With my Chube UHF, I print at 190, otherwise its liquid coming out the nozzle, and I could even go a few degress cooler. 

Start with a temp tower, and work from there. 

[sleepster217]

3 hours ago, fursphere said:

Print a temp tower.   An UHF hotend will overcook filament pretty easy - you might need to turn the temp down lower than you'd expect.  

For example, I'm using to printing PLA around 225/230.    With my Chube UHF, I print at 190, otherwise its liquid coming out the nozzle, and I could even go a few degress cooler. 

Start with a temp tower, and work from there. 

Ok thankyou