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"Patriotic" Trident 300 build begins...


RS250Rw

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Frame is assembled, and enough pieces are printed that I can begin placing parts on the frame.  Fan covers will be Red. as well as other accent pieces.  Should give a decent spread of color.  Will use TAP, UHP-200, Octopus Pro 1.1, Pi-4b with HS U2 SD card, and all the other electronics bits.  Octopus Pro 1.1 might change as I have a Manta M8P with a CB1 but I am inclined to use the CB1 as I am struggling to pay for CM4 module.  I have the Octopus Pro 1.1 and Pi4 so I think it wins for now.

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2 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Nice colours. Go the Box Turtle. Looking forward to the build, will be following along.

Thanks.  And on the Box Turtle, I believe it was your build that inspired me to go that route when it went GA.

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Rails cleaned, lubricated, and installed.  Zed motors and bits in place.  Couple other parts pulled together, and some fit testing to see coloring.

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I think it is coming together nicely.

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Printing some accent Stars that will be attached to door handles and a couple of other spots.  Box Turtle should make easy work of these.

 

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Today’s progress… XY Gantry finished, belts run and tap carriage installed. Decided to put CW2 and extruder in place to see what it will look like when Cowl is installed.

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Today's progress - Worked on bed. Magnet installed, heater installed, wagos in place.  Placed bed on Zed platform, and secured in place.  Also added XY endstop board. Deck placed and secured with twist locks.  Then turned things upside down to get working on my favorite part... electrical parts placement.

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Octopus Pro 1.1 and Pi in place as I am unsure of how Armbian (CB1 OS) will work with BoxTurtle and AFC Software.  Would rather go with what I know for now and test M8P/CB1 at a later date. 

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Tomorrow the Wire Channel runs will go in place, then I will start adding wire.  I have a few wire runs to create, but most everything is ready.

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I have considered it.  I will need to look into it more before deciding though.  I have questions... and it mostly centers on what to use for the top panel.  I don't really want a clear top panel...  Is that the norm?  Or are folks getting an opaque panel for the top panel?  Not sure I want to stare at the wiring on top thru a clear panel.

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19 minutes ago, RS250Rw said:

Not sure I want to stare at the wiring on top thru a clear panel.

I mean it's cool and all but it would be hard to see any little pieces of filament, etc. If it were me, I'd go with ACM panels. They can easily hold up to the rigors of 3D printing.

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I think there may be a misunderstanding here. The inverted electronics takes just the electronics bay and flips it. So the DIN rails are shifted down to the bottom of the skirts with brackets, then the bottom plate gets an arrangement to allow it to open up for access to the electronics. I am ever so slightly tempted now that I'm looking at flipping my printer again to investigate the angry pixie's shenanigans (tool head LEDs have stopped working, and now the Pi keeps throwing undervolt warnings).

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Ah, ok.  Guess I need to learn more about it.  UPDATE:   LOL, I was on my phone and totally missed the link @mvdveer posted for me to check out.  Thank you for doing that.   With that info, I totally understand... and will now be heading down that path. I am going to have so many reprints...  lol.

 

When I saw "inverted electronics" my mind went to the mods where they were moved to the top of the printer... 

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OK, officially backtracking to do "Inverted Electronics" bay. Thanks for the recommendation @mvdveer

All Electronic out, Wagos, DIN Rails out.  Will wait on removing motors/lead-screws until I have new smaller motor mounts.

V2.4 spitting necessary plastic parts now.  May get the old CR-10 Smart in the tent going too.  😛 

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Back on track with inverted electronics bay. Skirts fully installed and I was even able to fit the bottom panel.  I like to run the bottom panel because I use push/pull fan arrangement.  Gives a nice cross flow or air and keeps things nice and cool.  Will start wiring soon.

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So, with the Inverted Electronic change, it got me thinking... what other "must have" mods are recommended.  I have a toolhead board, and umbilical is recommended / planned... but I am not sure I like the delivered solution that came with the kit.  It is OK and all and definitely functional, but if there is something better I am all open to it.

Will be running CAN, SB2209(RP2040) toolhead board, and a FilaMAtrix toolhead sensor switch with filament cutter... Prep for Multi-filament MMU (Box Turtle or other).

Thanks!

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Wiring well underway, with lots of progress made, but lots of tidying up to do.  In the meantime...  As with most things I do... I have gone down a "rabbit's hole"...  Just trying some things out... it is only plastic, right?

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Yeah, I am short a GPIO in the toolhead for use with Box Turtle, and I do not want to have to run "another wire-set" with the CAN Bus Cable so I am running the XY Endstop board and that is the only wire in that chain.😛  It was worth a shot.  

In the meantime, I was working on wiring.  Most of it is done, just a few things to settle as I try to figure out how to go forward on the umbilical and reverse bowden.  So many options, but I need to get that sorted in order to finish up wiring and all.  I did power it on and everything powered up as expected.  Klipper is not happy of course, as there is no "config" files that are ready to go for the options I am going forward with at the moment.  Happy to say the Genie stayed in and no "magic smoke" was seen.

Now on to Configuration and finishing up the bowden/CAN cable so I can get the toolhead going.

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Handle for Deck Panel so it is more easily removed / replaced.  Next up, the full power-on.  Config files are done... I think.  Still a few things to settle, but I think I can go thru initial power-up and testing.  I will let you know how it goes.

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