Prints failing

[sleepster217]

Hi I am having problems with prints failing is the same drama I have when a nozzle blocks prints end up looking like a scotch pad

To start with and in the past has been a blocked nozzle and this happens some what often 2 to 3 rolls to a nozzle I was using the triangle labs v6 nozzles in .4 the hardend steel ones to suit the rapido 2f uhf but after blocking so many nozzles I have gone to the cheap brass ones same deal 2 rolls and the crappy print so pulled the nozzle off put a new one in 

 

Started print it put the first layer down fine so left it to it came back 20 or so min later and same deal acting like the nozzle was blocked and so stoped print and heated hot end up and manually pushed some fillament through and was pushing through fine and like a normal nozzle started printing again but same deal I pulled the fillament out of the hot end and tried some off the end in case it was damaged from when it was acting like ot was blocked 

 

And yes u started the print again first few layers fine and then back to printing scotch pads 

I have no idea what could be wrong was printing jayo pla rapido 2F uhf .4 nozzles and a galleleo 2 on a Stealthburner any ideas would be appreciated for reference was printing fine 2 days ago and same profile just less infill 

[SamppaD]

Hi. I have almost the same setup,galileo2,SB and dragon UHF. 
Check your retraction settings and extruder spring tension..if tension is too loose then filament is slipping..wrong retraction settings can be also a reson for clogging
Check galileo2 filament path,pull extruder a part and check that you don't have filament particles between the gear and the roller. 
Inspect extruder motor harness for defects,poor crimps or broken wire close to connector.
Then remove hotend,disassemble it and check that you don't have melted or broken filament particles in the heatbrake (cold part of the hotend).
If you have a clog in the heatbrake you can use a hotair gun to heat up the heatbrake to help with clog removal.
Replace the nozzle is recomended,make sure the size of the nozzle is correct and mating surfaces are clean. 
What i suspect is that filament was slipping due to loose tension on the tension screw. 
Most likely there is already a filament clog in the heat brake. In any case you need to disassemble hotend and extruder .
Swapping nozzles will not fix it.

 

 

 

[Jerazmus]

Hey there. I have encountered this when I have had a bad hotend cooling fan. The fan will be moving but not at the RPMs it’s supposed to that’s enough to cool the hotend. If you have tried all other steps, I would give that a replacement or swap out for testing. 

[sleepster217]

Ok will have a bit more of a look tomorrow I pulled the extruder apart all parts look ok little bit of dust around rollers but to be expected if has been slipping will once is printing again check retraction settings as that might explain a few things 

 

I did also pull apart hotend as well was getting dark in the shed but heat break looks clear extender for the uhf had stuff in it un melted plastic and so did nozzle will clean out tomorrow but from what I can see was expected ptfe looked clear 

But I did notice that the heater and pt1000 thermistor was coated in rubbish( I had a leak a few months back ) and wondering if mabie it did some other damage to one of them 2 I have spares but no heat paste got some slice engineering stuff on order now but wondering if mabie temp is not stable and causing a block and then it slips I did also retention the extruder in case it was loose will post a pic of hot end see below

[Lind301]

This is a bit way out but do you have silicone soc on that heat block ? (if the temperature allows it)

had a thing with a drop effect GX it started to show signs of under feeding and the silicone soc had cracked so when the part cooling fan ramped up to do bridges it dropped a bit in temp(Not so it triggered the alarm) but the feeding gears dug a gap in the filament and slipped a bit. 
IF it happen again release the filament and look at it if it has a zig zag pattern or has a grinded side. 
The result might be like Jerazmus says with the cooling fan.
And on the other side tried print 75a TPU forgot to open the doors on the printer the temp went up and the filament when a bit soft and might have some additives to it but it went rubber band at that temp and as long as we don't use screw feeders to force the filament in it might slip a bit and it might work great at very random times.
Slow moves and the filament sits in the heated chamber and loves the heat.  Well got a few gray hair from it.
 

 

[sleepster217]

Yes it dose have a silicone sock on it I have a spare one as well so might fit one as well but it dose appear the look fine just a bit dirty from the leak I had between the nozzle and heat block as the nozzle came loose one day

[Lind301]

You only need one sock if you think it's affecting your feeding set the temp of the hotend to about 180 . start the fans for part cooling to 100% and check if it can keep up the heat without going to 99-100% all the time. 

Check so your hotend nozzle is att the correct height so the parts cooling air flow hits the printed object.

if you have a picture of the failure it will give some clues to whats going on.

but if there was a leak check if its a ALL metal heat break or it has a ptfe tube lining they can break internally or create a restriction.
on the other hand i have heard of titanium heat breaks the cracks when heated or become brittle when heated so a nose dive in the build plate and it might crack its not a common problem.
But might explain the incident type happening after a while.

if its a blockage then try to feed filament tru the extrude and watch how it comes out of the nozzle normally it will fall straight down might be different with filament with carbon or other add ins 

if you can unscrew the heater block and take a pieces of filament and push down from the top of the heat break.
If all is ok it will go smooth if you have a ptfe lining tube in the heat break it might fall out so be a bit careful.

and you might need some the thermal paste think you get a bag with the hotend for the cooling part .
Some have a threaded heat break some don't and they might need the thermal paste.  

Btw is your E-stepper or driver ok ? 

I have a EBB and some times it can be a bit cranky when i have to have a heated chamber so it will miss steps or in my case on canbus a error code.
and there are tons of other things that can create this problem

But basic are check temp graf. so it constant that will rule out a few things. 
Check your slicer software so they don't have a bug. think one of them had a g-code generating problem that waked the acceleration to insane lewes 

And yes filament can have a bad batch what i have seen is filament breaking of after a few meters intermittent, size problems, mixture problems in the plastic.
long thing now sorry for that ..
 

[lilyclark]

On 6/21/2025 at 6:00 PM, sleepster217 said:

Hi I am having problems with prints failing is the same drama I have when a nozzle blocks prints end up looking like a scotch pad

To start with and in the past has been a blocked nozzle and this happens some what often 2 to 3 rolls to a nozzle I was using the triangle labs v6 nozzles in .4 the hardend steel ones to suit the rapido 2f uhf but after blocking so many nozzles I have gone to the cheap brass ones same deal 2 rolls and the crappy print so pulled the nozzle off put a new one in 

Started print it put the first layer down fine so left it to it came back 20 or so min later and same deal acting like the nozzle was blocked and so stoped print and heated hot end up and manually pushed some fillament through and was pushing through fine and like a normal nozzle started printing again but same deal I pulled the fillament out of the hot end and tried some off the end in case it was damaged from when it was acting like ot was blocked 

And yes u started the print again first few layers fine and then back to printing scotch pads 

I have no idea what could be wrong was printing jayo pla rapido 2F uhf .4 nozzles and a galleleo 2 on a Stealthburner any ideas would be appreciated for reference was printing fine 2 days ago and same profile just less infill 

 

 

Edited June 27, 2025 by lilyclark

[lilyclark]

On 6/21/2025 at 6:00 PM, sleepster217 said:

Hi I am having problems with prints failing is the same drama I have when a nozzle blocks prints end up looking like a scotch pad

To start with and in the past has been a blocked nozzle and this happens some what often 2 to 3 rolls to a nozzle I was using the triangle labs v6 nozzles in .4 the hardend steel ones to suit the rapido 2f uhf but after blocking so many nozzles I have gone to the cheap brass ones same deal 2 rolls and the crappy print so pulled the nozzle off put a new one in 

Started print it put the first layer down fine so left it to it came back 20 or so min later and same deal acting like the nozzle was blocked and so stoped print and heated hot end up and manually pushed some fillament through and was pushing through fine and like a normal nozzle started printing again but same deal I pulled the fillament out of the hot end and tried some off the end in case it was damaged from when it was acting like ot was blocked 

And yes u started the print again first few layers fine and then back to printing scotch pads 

I have no idea what could be wrong was printing jayo pla rapido 2F uhf .4 nozzles and a galleleo 2 on a Stealthburner any ideas would be appreciated for reference was printing fine 2 days ago and same profile just less infill 

 

Even if filament pushes fine manually, you could be experiencing heat creep. The Rapido 2F UHF is a high-flow hotend and if cooling is inadequate, the filament can soften too early in the heat break, causing an intermittent blockage mid-print.

 

Edited July 9, 2025 by lilyclark

[sleepster217]

On 6/22/2025 at 7:33 PM, Lind301 said:

 

I have pulled the hot end right apart the other night sorry for the delay and there was a blockage in the top of the heat break not the heat sink I have replaced the heater and the probe and put some new heat paste on it and cleared the blockage I am not sure if I did it the right way or not but used a drill bit I have a set that is .1 increments and put them through with my fingers the ptfe tube was clear and I put it all back together and well I did it again started ok and then turned to crap the printer in in my shed atm fillament is dry and outside temp is around 15 deg c was printing pla at 240 deg doors open is a fairly standard stealthburner just a little longer at the base have been using this config for 15 months (first printer) I am starting to think might be a hot end fan it looks like is turning ok but not sure I have some new fans on order as I don't think I have a spare of them I do have a different hotend from triangle labs a non uhf that I am thinking about trying out is the tchc td6s I think cheapy and see how that works I got a mate of mine to print a new front as min will be too long for this hot end I just hope the ducts are correct as I cannot rember it that was longer on the tool head or not 

[Jerazmus]

I think I mentioned before in this thread about the fan. I had this issue and that was exactly what it was. It was spinning but not enough rpms to work properly. I would change that out if I were you. And have some spares on hand. Makes life easy down the line.