winding road to a voron

[Penatr8tor]

3 hours ago, Interslice2000 said:

Ye speeds are measured in days on this.

Hahaha Yeah, those old machines just don't have the processing power to print much faster. 

The temp towers are looking good though.

[Interslice2000]

Currently on holiday. A couple of weeks camping in france. Nice to get a break from the irish weather but also all the tech and screen time between work and hobbies.

Got a few bits done before heading for the ferry. I couldn’t find any 45’ LED mounts that i liked for the enclosure, so drew up these and printed them in the black ASA. Turned out pretty well. A bit fiddly to fit but fairly low profile. So fiddly I didn’t get them sorted before I left so the lights were left dangling. 
They’ll someday fit into extrusion alot handier than the timber frame of the enclosure!

Organic supports are working well for me. I reduced the sizes massively compared with the cura defaults. One or two quick pushes of the chisel blew most of them out.

No pics but you can see it on the toolhead in the backround, I reprinted in asa and improved the design of my once temporary probe bracket. The petg was moving about meaning a new z offset was needed every few prints. Since the new ASA version went in, the 1st later has been exactly the same on 3 long prints. Too much mush actually, as I have been in the habit of allowing for the petg bracket slowly drifting the probe closer to the bed and general adhesion/warping issues back in the pre enclosure days.


 

 

Edited July 4, 2025 by Interslice2000

[Interslice2000]

On 6/19/2025 at 10:20 PM, mvdveer said:

I have diluted mine in a ratio of 1:20 in 99% Isopropyl alcohol and apply a light spray of that every 10 prints or so, then wipe it down with a lint free cloth. I know @Penatr8tor uses paper towel. I would probably then apply the pure nano-polymer about once a month after cleaning the plates with hot soapy water. ( Or after I clean the plate, some may be 6 weekly). In addition I clean the plates after each print with 99% Isopropyl alcohol.

Back printing again as of yesterday. Some post arrived today including the nano juice. 
Have a second repeat part printing now in ASA using the aggressive squish method. The PEI previously was given a rub with a green dish scouring pad. No lift or warpage at all.

Happy with my new slightly less bodge probe mount. After the ten hour first print, the first layer, print 2 looks consistent . The ASA and the cable tie mount/reinforcement loop seems to be doing the job. 

I’ve a couple more to do so will try the less aggressive z offset with the nano spray. Might even remove the brim

[Penatr8tor]

32 minutes ago, Interslice2000 said:

Might even remove the brim

 

Hahaha Brims are for losers. 

Glad to see you back up and printing. The Nano polymer is probably the best IMO, at least until someone comes out with something better.

[Interslice2000]

37 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

39 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

Hahaha Brims are for losers. 

Glad to see you back up and printing. The Nano polymer is probably the best IMO, at least until someone comes out with something better.

Will be nice to not need them. The ASA and ABS brims are hard to remove cleanly, plus the time it takes.

Also in the order are some coated nozzles and engineering filament. I’m going to view/collect a pre-loved RR vcore3 on wednesday. Next stage of the winding road! I’m planning to print upgrades for the vcore on the wanhoa with high temp filament, if it can handle the temps and glass fibres! Time will tell! 

 

[TitusADuxass]

17 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

The Nano polymer is probably the best IMO, at least until someone comes out with something better.

I'd like to give Nano a try but - 158 yoyos!!

[Interslice2000]

I got it here for 55

https://filament2print.com

 

[TitusADuxass]

1 hour ago, Interslice2000 said:

I got it here for 55

https://filament2print.com

I've found it on 3DJake.de, 60€ for 120ml and 25€ for 50ml.

I have no idea how much is used. Do you treat the whole bed with it or just the area being printed on?

[Penatr8tor]

49 minutes ago, TitusADuxass said:

I've found it on 3DJake.de, 60€ for 120ml and 25€ for 50ml.

I have no idea how much is used. Do you treat the whole bed with it or just the area being printed on?

Wow Amazon has that really overpriced in EU. Glad you found a deal.

Here's my method... 1st application, wash with warm soapy water, rinse and dry. Once you have the plate back on the printer... a little wipe with alcohol and then 3-4 good sized drops of the Nano and spread it over the surface. When I wipe with alcohol, I use one of those paper towel rolls that have 1/2 sized sheets, and I fold a sheet into a square pad. I use the pad with remaining alcohol on it to spread the Nano around. I would guess the volume that I apply is about 5cc maybe?

Here's my bed with Nano and pad before wiping. And I reuse the pad a few times between prints. It already has some Nano on it and when I saturate the pad with alcohol and wipe for the next print... it re-applies a little bit of Nano that got into the pad upon application. Sh!t is expensive, right?

Then I smooth it out with the edge of the pad, like wipe-on polyurethane varnish for wood.

 

 

 

[TitusADuxass]

@Interslice2000 @Penatr8tor as always on here - super helpful responses.

I've just watched a number of their (Vision Miner) YouTube posts and it looks like it does what it says on the tin!

Best I get my wallet out.

 

[Penatr8tor]

7 minutes ago, TitusADuxass said:

@Interslice2000 @Penatr8tor as always on here - super helpful responses.

I've just watched a number of their (Vision Miner) YouTube posts and it looks like it does what it says on the tin!

Best I get my wallet out.

You're welcome, the product goes a long way. I've had mine for close to a year now and have only used about half of my bottle. Of course, it all depends on how much you print.

[Interslice2000]

The bottle has a small nozzle. I went crazy the first go and made a squiggle on the build area and used the brush supplied to spread it out. 
Plan to dilute and spray it in future as per @mvdveer 

Washed the plate with acetone and then alcohol in advance. Too lazy to trek to the sink! 
 

Brimless print is brewing. Fingers crossed! 
 

You can see the nano on the bed here!

[Interslice2000]

Glue was a success! Very sticky. Tricky enough to get the part off. I maybe went a bit hard on the liberal use it suggested, for an already keyed PEI sheet. Bottom layer looks great only it did leave a slight whiteness in parts. Guess that can be removed easy enough with acetone. Possibly stress marks from pulling it off.
 

As per usual another issue has cropped up! I  also moved to a 0.6 nozzle for this. 0.3 layer height so say 20 layers in the z seam starts making a big gap on starts.

I rechecked the extruder actual vs requested. Spot on.

Running pressure advance now. That didn’t appear to work yesterday, pre nano, due to the squish.

Edited July 22, 2025 by Interslice2000

[Interslice2000]

I have the next one sliced with random z seam which should mask it a bit. Should I lower retraction maybe? 
Currently is 0.75mm @30mm/s.

Edit:

I just remembered that, before my holiday, I realised you don’t google a 3d printing problem, you simply go to ellis.

https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/retraction.html

 

Edited July 22, 2025 by Interslice2000

[mvdveer]

28 minutes ago, Interslice2000 said:

slight whiteness in parts.

Use a hairdryer on the bottom of the part, not acetone - this will remove the white easily. I bought a cheap heat gun for this purpose.

 

[Interslice2000]

28 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Use a hairdryer on the bottom of the part, not acetone - this will remove the white easily. I bought a cheap heat gun for this purpose.

Cheers! I’ll try that.

The pressure advance cal showed I was out a bit on the under extrusion side. 0.15 reduced to .135.

It was really stuck to the bed and needed scraping off. I smoothed/wiped the plate down with ipa so hopefully the balance is better. 
 

Although the instructions say apply liberally I would lean the other way and see how it goes. Maybe even start with the diluted spray bottle technique!

Stuff is too good! It should certainly last!!

Edited July 22, 2025 by Interslice2000

[Interslice2000]

Picked up the ratrig traveling about for work yesterday. I’ll be home later today to give it a proper look. Initial impressions are great.

It’s an updated 3.1 300

Lightly used for PLA.

Octopus main board. 

Edited July 24, 2025 by Interslice2000

[Interslice2000]

Nano has killed the pei! 

It had some damage from the pre probe days. It owed me nothing!

Textured pei arrives on monday. Maybe the nano isn’t great with smooth pei or it needs a fresh out of the box smooth pei sheet? 
 

 

[Penatr8tor]

2 hours ago, Interslice2000 said:

Picked up the ratrig traveling about for work yesterday.

Nice, Same as mine. RatOS is also really cool. It's pretty much plug and play for everything including print_start and end macros, bed leveling, probing priming. There's a lot in RatOS that you would have to create on your own. I really like it.

 

I'm also running the new Toolhead V1 which uses an EBB42 CAN board, Orbiter2 extruder and Rapido 2+ UHF.

 

 

[Penatr8tor]

On 7/25/2025 at 12:02 PM, Interslice2000 said:

Nano has killed the pei! 

It had some damage from the pre probe days. It owed me nothing!

Textured pei arrives on monday. Maybe the nano isn’t great with smooth pei or it needs a fresh out of the box smooth pei sheet?

Looks like glass isn't a very good substrate for PEI coating. I use textured sheets exclusively so I can't speak to smooth PEI.

[claudermilk]

I suspect the PEI was already getting ready to fail. I've used Nano with my smooth PEI and it didn't do that.

With Nano, as @Penatr8tor showed, a little goes a really long way. After a print, I also flex the plate a bunch on parts with big footprints like that to break the part loose as much as possible, then use the spatula to finish the job.

[Penatr8tor]

37 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

After a print, I also flex the plate a bunch on parts with big footprints like that to break the part loose as much as possible, then use the spatula to finish the job.

Yep, I'm also flexing the plate either by bending up a corner or removing and bending. I've found that one of those plastic razors works awesome for removing priming strips and skirts without damaging the build plate.

[Interslice2000]

Thanks guys, ye maybe just a mixture of too much nano and a damaged PEI surface. It was very sticky though, maybe the ASA was a factor too.

New textured bed arrived this morning. Only cost 13 euro so no major wallet damage occured! Trying first sans nano to see if lifting is an issue.

 

 

Got some free time this evening and have started into battle with RatOS and it ratrig's Pi. 

The RatOS image is 1.8GB and is not playing ball with my slow internet, keeps timing out resulting into a download failed. Nothing ever easy!!

[Interslice2000]

9 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Nice, Same as mine. RatOS is also really cool. It's pretty much plug and play for everything including print_start and end macros, bed leveling, probing priming. There's a lot in RatOS that you would have to create on your own. I really like it.

I'm also running the new Toolhead V1 which uses an EBB42 CAN board, Orbiter2 extruder and Rapido 2+ UHF.

Looks great with the white parts! Mine will be loosing the green look too. It’s all PETG so will need to be replaced, unfortunately. 
 

Need to figure the full spec of my toolhead. It looks like a rapido ‘phaetus’’ UHF at the core of it also. Beefy server fan for part cooling. Uses the stock induction leveling sensor. 

 

[Penatr8tor]

14 hours ago, Interslice2000 said:

Need to figure the full spec of my toolhead. It looks like a rapido ‘phaetus’’ UHF at the core of it also. Beefy server fan for part cooling. Uses the stock induction leveling sensor. 

From the photo and your description of what you have I'm 99% sure you have a Bondtech LGX Lite extruder and the Rapido (probably a Rapido 1st gen). The probe is more than likely a Super Pinda like Prusa's use. And as you stated the cooling fan is beefy. There were two options when I built mine, the beefy 4020 server fan and a 5015 blower, I did the 5015 version.  

As for Klipper/RatOS goes... Get a new SD card and flash the latest RatOS onto it. The software is plug and play and that means that it only plays with components it knows so if you decide you want to swap something out with something different, check to see if RatOS supports it first. And don't let that scare you, RatOS is awesome and easy once you've gotten used to it. RatOS V2.1.0-RC2 is the version you want and FWIW... you have to install RatOS 2.x from scratch and why I recommended a new SD card. You can always plug in the old one if things go south. One thing that I found to be not so clear on the documentation is that once you plug the flashed SD card into the Pi and turned the print on... You need to access the printer on your phone by logging into the WIFI hotspot that RatOS created so that you can setup your home WIFI. Once you complete that you can jump over to your PC and log into RatOS (Klipper) on your network. Once you're in... just use the configurator to select your hardware. It's actually a really nice Klipper implementation. 

Now if you like this printer (and you will because it's very fast and capable). You might want to upgrade the toolhead to the new Toolhead V1. I added a Beacon Rev-H to my upgrade and found out that the supplied CAD models /STL's don't have a Beacon mount so I redesign the parts from the V-Core 4 Toolhead to work with the V-Core 3.1 and you can find those parts and the whole story in detail here...

 

You can download the updated toolhead files for the Toolhead V1.0 here...

So, one last thing... RatOS lets you do things that no one can do with regular Klipper like real-time resonance monitoring and compensation, but you'll need an ADXL345 (Beacon) attached to the toolhead. See below.

 

And if that doesn't want to make you want to install and try RatOS then you're not normal.