Upgrading My Voron — What Mod Made the Biggest Difference for You?

[getawaycar]

 

Hi all,

I've been running my Voron 2.4 for a few months now and overall, it's been fantastic. Solid performance, reliable prints, and the build process was actually fun. That said, I'm starting to look into mods and upgrades — not just for aesthetics, but for actual performance or maintenance improvements.

I’m curious:
What single mod or upgrade made the biggest impact on your Voron build?
Was it the Klicky probe? Stealthburner? CANbus? A specific fan duct or printed part? Or maybe something more subtle like cable management or firmware tweaks?
 Whether it’s worth recommending to someone still relatively new to Voron

Would love to hear your experiences and maybe get inspired for my next upgrade path!

Thanks in advance!

 

[TitusADuxass]

Switching over to Beacon was a game changer for me.

I also changed the extruder / hotend over to a Orbiter 2 and Rapido 2 UHF.

[PFarm]

I second the Beacon probe, for sure, as a reliable first layer. I run sensorless homing on both my printers it works flawlessly when properly set up. 

[TitusADuxass]

2 hours ago, PFarm said:

I run sensorless homing on both my printers it works flawlessly when properly set up. 

I forgot about sensorless! It takes a bit of fettling to get it working correctly. But once its set up it works, and if it starts homing before hitting end stop - it's time to inspect the rails and moving parts. Don't try it on a 330 AWD, it doesn't play well with mote than one motor on the same axis.

[claudermilk]

Tap and Galileo2 for me. 

I went from stock inductive probe to Klicky which was an improvement. But Klicky was always fiddly. Tap was a little bit of a challenge initially (I also started with the beta, so extra challenges). But once set up, it's been great. 

Galileo2 is a simple build and has been dead reliable since I switched. Clockwork isn't bad, but Galileo is easier to run. I even switched my V0.2 over to the stand-alone version.

[ChicagoKeri]

Replacing TAP with E3D RevoPZ made the largest print quality difference so far.

Replacing the BTT SB2209 with a Mellow SB2040  stopped an appetite for Hotend Thermistors.

[NikosSprocket]

CNC-Tap V2, CAN-Bus, Custom Toolhead/CPAP system for more cooling and lighter system (beta version is almost done!).

[therm_virtual0y]

Cartographer Touch and switching CW2 extruder out with Galileo 2.  Those two things made the biggest impact on printing for me.  It is finally possible to hit start print and walk away for the first time!  Game changer

[Penatr8tor]

I'll 3rd the Beacon probe.

I'll also add, and Orbiter 2.X with Orbitool 2 Toolhead board and Rapido Hot end.

I have all the parts for you ready to print and assemble.

 

[polyneutron]

Carbon fiber gantry, sensor-less homing, cartographer touch and 520mm build height and a glass bead. The biggest, best mod was the orbiter V3 revo as the prints are perfect and I can print nearly every filament form PLA to PC and even nylon. That and I can change nozzles with one hand. I am so glad I found the Voron and the communities that support it.  

Can set up with the help of Esoterica's write up was bullet proof.  The baud rate of the early EB36 was a problem, so I went with Duet. The Duet CAN worked but their scanning Z probe is surface mount and problematic. I went back to a Manta M8P as the EBB was now 1M baud rate. The Manta has an integrated CM4 with EMMC memory running Kipper and mainsail with a cartographer 3d probe. The Mellow Fly SHT36 would drop the UUID for Fly sht36 plus when the can was plugged into the fly or spliced at the motherboard. The EBB36 works as well as Duet but and the cartographer scanning probe is a better design. That and they both (EBB, Carto) have input shaping which also helps print quality.

[Bindu]

Fridge door conversion was my best mod. Finally, a door that seals and keeps the fumes inside so the filter can take care of it. I print mostly ASA, so that is important. Second is converting my TAP to Dyze Horizon strain gage nozzle sensor. Way better than tap and 100% reliable and repeatable.

I am currently working on an Orbiter3 conversion to enable reliable printing of TPU.

[PFarm]

2 hours ago, Bindu said:

Fridge door conversion was my best mod. 

Oh yes! I forgot to mention that one it would be my first upgrade mod on a new printer.  

[NikosSprocket]

2 hours ago, PFarm said:

Oh yes! I forgot to mention that one it would be my first upgrade mod on a new printer.  

Which fridge door mod do you guys used? 

[niko666]

On 6/11/2025 at 6:15 AM, claudermilk said:

Tap and Galileo2 for me. 

I went from stock inductive probe to Klicky which was an improvement. But Klicky was always fiddly. Tap was a little bit of a challenge initially (I also started with the beta, so extra challenges). But once set up, it's been great. 

Galileo2 is a simple build and has been dead reliable since I switched. Clockwork isn't bad, but Galileo is easier to run. I even switched my V0.2 over to the stand-alone version.

Same, love my galileo 2, it was a pita as first but that was user error. I didn't clean the filament path enough and it caused some issues, but once i got it sorted its 100x more reliable than my old cw2. 

 

I love my cnc tap, thought about beacon but I use my Garolite plates more than my pei so im skipping beacon for now. 

Edited Thursday at 11:08 PM by niko666

[PFarm]

 

2 hours ago, NikosSprocket said:

Which fridge door mod do you guys used? 

Printed parts are found here. Measure the side-to-side and top-to-bottom extrusion and cut accordingly, or there are Clicky Clank door kits out there.

[NikosSprocket]

3 hours ago, PFarm said:

Printed parts are found here. Measure the side-to-side and top-to-bottom extrusion and cut accordingly, or there are Clicky Clank door kits out there.

Looks awesome!

Thank you!

[TitusADuxass]

3 hours ago, NikosSprocket said:

Looks awesome!

Thank you!

It's so good, im one for my Vz330.