Voron 2.4r2 350 mm getting serviced & updated aka "Rabbit Hole"

[NikosSprocket]

I have been running my 2 Voron 2.4, a 300 mm and a 350 mm, for a few years now with excellent results and minor updates/upgrades, like Klicky probe, Release 2 updates, part cooling 5015 fan, Nevermore filter and some cosmetic changes.

It is also time to replace some plastic parts, deep clean and grease the linear rails, check belts and pulleys etc.

The 300 mm Voron 2.4r2 (aka Voron-1) is running great for about five years now with the above upgrades and minor maintenance, so it was the first one to get an upgrade and maintenance.

Stealthburner with LGX Lite v2; originally full size LGX. Reuse the Mosquito hotend with new heater and thermistor, and Convert from conventional cables to CAN network and finally go from Klicky probe to CNC Tap system.

After rails serviced, new plastics printed and all the new parts for the Stealthburner, including LEDs, EBB etc. put together, the Voron-1 is back in service and working great!

The CNC Tap system works great and love the simplicity of the CAN network; four cables! The cable chains look empty now!

 

So it is time to service and update/upgrade the 350 mm Voron (aka Voron-2). But, I am not too happy with the part cooling performance of the Stealthburner, especialy try to print PLA fast, so I started researching other solutions. Of course, CPAP turbine and hose is the top contender for supplying part cooling air. Then I found the wonderful Github site of sneakytreesnake and his not Voron mainstream head CrownCooler. Unfortunately, is designed for Orbiter with a Rapido head. I have a Mosquito and a LGX Lite V2; so here we go to Fusion360!

The existing projects I will be using are:

• CrownCooler (modified)
• 

 

• Voron CPAP with muffler from Flaigenstool Engineering (modified for TPU gaskets)
• 

• V2.4-Aire from @VoronManiac

 

[TitusADuxass]

From my experience, that muffler doesn't bring much to the party.

I'm having a serious look at this one https://www.printables.com/model/935635-mammoth-3d-cpap-muffler-version-135-voron-24-voron

[NikosSprocket]

9 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

From my experience, that muffler doesn't bring much to the party.

I'm having a serious look at this one https://www.printables.com/model/935635-mammoth-3d-cpap-muffler-version-135-voron-24-voron

Many, many thanks @TitusADuxass!

That's what I was looking for! Size matters when it comes to sound!

I have not tried the VZbot intake muffler yet, but I thought it was too small of a sound chamber to do any significant reduction. Anyway, I needed something to start, and many other solutions are using external air which will be great for PLA but not good for ABS, ASA etc. Eventually, I need to find/make a solution that uses a baffle that automatically draws the correct air for the filament used.

The only other "muffler" I have found CPAP Muffler System - C.M.S that it had potential but I needed something quick because I am working on the completely new head and needed a quick print tot test it. The designer of the CMS muffler had some good points and I will try eventually:

• Enclose the turbine housing in a sound deadening material.
• "Soft" mount the turbine as I am sure is not balanced at high RPMs....

Cheers!

[NikosSprocket]

Functional head completed and ready to test.

Some stats:

• Extrusion nozzle to linear rail carriage 28 mm (Stealth 28.10 mm)
• Overall width 84.966 mm (Stealth 85.216)
• Height from nozzle to Extruder lever 105.357 mm (Stealth 145.063 mm).
• 3 printed parts for everything; no cosmetic or LED/camera mounts yet!

Need to add the EBB36 CAN holding frame and wire everything before for 1st run.

Some images:

It's amazing how "clean" it looks with the 2 wire chains gone!

Hopefully, it actually works too!

Cheers!

 

Edited April 9 by NikosSprocket

[TitusADuxass]

9 hours ago, NikosSprocket said:

It's amazing how "clean" it looks without the 2 wire chains gone!

It looks even better if you get rid of the final (vertical) chain as well.

[NikosSprocket]

11 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

It looks even better if you get rid of the final (vertical) chain as well.

How?

There are still 2 motors (X & Y) and the Y stop switch wires to contained.

[Penatr8tor]

Interesting toolhead no doubt.

[mvdveer]

3 hours ago, NikosSprocket said:

How?

There are still 2 motors (X & Y) and the Y stop switch wires to contained.

Mod it to a horizontal chain mod - takes 10 minutes (not including printing the parts). Will also free up space in Y and prevent the toolboard from hitting the cable chain:

My Voron 350                                                                       My   Voron 300

  

Or you can do a horizontal Z umbilical - for me that was too much effort for little gain. (Have to re-wire and crimp the two motor leads)

This is from hartk:

 

[NikosSprocket]

8 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Interesting toolhead no doubt.

Let's see how it will do under speed.

[Penatr8tor]

27 minutes ago, NikosSprocket said:

Let's see how it will do under speed.

I'm actually curious how fast your Voron can get.

What are you going to shoot for?

Currently I'm printing ~200mm/s @ 5K acceleration.

[TitusADuxass]

17 hours ago, NikosSprocket said:

How?

There are still 2 motors (X & Y) and the Y stop switch wires to contained.

I'm running sensorless, so no Y stop switch.

I've got 4 motor wires in an umbilical from the centre of the gantry down to the hole in the baseplate.

[NikosSprocket]

19 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

I'm actually curious how fast your Voron can get.

What are you going to shoot for?

Currently I'm printing ~200mm/s @ 5K acceleration.

The 300 mm with the updated Stealthburner is running ~200 mm/s @6K. My current problem is cooling and can be seen clearly on prints with overhangs that start looking bad after a few perimeters only on the back side of the printed object. Placing the object 90 degrees from the previous location will print that overhangs with better results. For example, for the Maker's Muse Torture Egg, I need to slow down the print job down to 45% speed to get good overhangs at the very bottom and top sections. The rest prints great at full speed.

[Penatr8tor]

12 hours ago, NikosSprocket said:

The 300 mm with the updated Stealthburner is running ~200 mm/s @6K.

Yup, that sounds about right for the Voron. I'll try squeezing another K or two out over the weekened. Thanks.

 

12 hours ago, NikosSprocket said:

My current problem is cooling and can be seen clearly on prints with overhangs that start looking bad after a few perimeters only on the back side of the printed object. Placing the object 90 degrees from the previous location will print that overhangs with better results. For example, for the Maker's Muse Torture Egg, I need to slow down the print job down to 45% speed to get good overhangs at the very bottom and top sections. The rest prints great at full speed.

That's been my experience as well. I experimented with the wall printing order in Orca Slicer. While not perfect I did get better prints overall using Inner/Outer/Inner over the default Inner/Outer. In the past, I never paid too much attention to overhangs because they were generally OK-ish or good enough and got the job done. Now I want a bit more surface quality. So, Rabbit Hole it is... I'll give the Torture Egg a try and see if I can get some improvement.

[NikosSprocket]

Update!

All printed parts for the head (minus the ECAS of course!):

On the printer:

...and from underneath:

 

Need to wire the CAN cable to the U2C, CPAP motor and 1st run soon.

Edited April 17 by NikosSprocket

[NikosSprocket]

Finally finished the CPAP air supply system and the noise levels, no numbers, just comparing with my other standard Voron Stealthburner, are satisfactory; see below.

I need to set up the umbilical "holders" and music wire before starting calibrations and tests.

The motor dome may look massive, but it is only 90 mm thick and 165 mm diameter at the widest point. The hatched area it becomes 5% Gyroid Infill that I will assume has excellent acoustic suppression properties. I used TPE 85A to create all the gaskets, and they made a big difference on noise redaction due to air leaks without them. Btw, the air intake muffler is a modified VzBot v2 muffler but using two "tune" pipes in a single housing and added gaskets. The original design was "whistling" from the air leaks!

This thing puts out so much more air that I cannot see using more than 40%; we will see soon

[NikosSprocket]

The project was put on the background for a few weeks so I can prep my moto so I started riding again!

Now back in the rabbit hole!

Well, The CPAP housing works great and at 45% actual power when Slicer request 100% parts fan and it's as quite as my Nevermore! On the other hand, the CrownCooler connected to this CPAP setup was producing too much high velocity and narrow air flow that was literally pushed the hot filament before it got solidified.

So back to the drawing board, created a more conventional nozzle.

The tips of the nozzle are from VzBot. Early tests look promising with great air flow but lower speeds.

I am working now to adapt the Stealburners LEDs to this new pipe design and adding a Voron Logo that will house the 3rd LED.

 

[NikosSprocket]

UPDATE

Unless some major issue arises, the toolhead is done!

The only items that are not addressed yet is the rear cables with the EBB36 board cover, and the nozzle lights.

[NikosSprocket]

The LED:

 

[NikosSprocket]

1st print:

[Penatr8tor]

Looking good so far.

I'm currently running my refurbished 2.4-300 at the following for PLA with good results.

Top surface 150mm/s - 5K acceleration.

Outer Walls 200mm/s - 5K acceleration

Everything else 250mm/s - 5K acceleration

Travel - 350mm/s - 7K acceleration

A similar Voron Cube to yours takes ~40 minutes to print.

I noticed that my steppers are pretty noisy at speeds at or below 150mm/s. Once I bumped up the speed a bit it quieted down considerably.

[3DCoded]

1 hour ago, Penatr8tor said:

I noticed that my steppers are pretty noisy at speeds at or below 150mm/s. Once I bumped up the speed a bit it quieted down considerably.

Do you use Klippain-Shake&Tune? There's a pretty helpful tool there called `CREATE_VIBRATIONS_PROFILE` that generates a graph to show you which speeds generate the least vibrations. 

 

https://github.com/Frix-x/klippain-shaketune/blob/main/docs/macros/create_vibrations_profile.md

[Penatr8tor]

21 minutes ago, 3DCoded said:

Do you use Klippain-Shake&Tune?

Nope, I get good results with the standard TEST_RESONANCES AXIS=X & Y from the command line.

I have beacon probes on 4 of my 5 printers that all have an onboard ADXL345. My Voron 2.4 being the slowest.

FWIW... the loud stepper phenomenon is just a function of print speed and doesn't affect quality. It's just something that I noticed on my 1st print on a new Orca profile. 30 minutes later I had it all worked out. Not a big enough deal to make a deep dive into an already solved problem.

Thanks for the recommendation though. 

[NikosSprocket]

13 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Looking good so far.

I'm currently running my refurbished 2.4-300 at the following for PLA with good results.

Top surface 150mm/s - 5K acceleration.

Outer Walls 200mm/s - 5K acceleration

Everything else 250mm/s - 5K acceleration

Travel - 350mm/s - 7K acceleration

A similar Voron Cube to yours takes ~40 minutes to print.

I noticed that my steppers are pretty noisy at speeds at or below 150mm/s. Once I bumped up the speed a bit it quieted down considerably.

What infill pattern and % do you use for your Voron Cube; I used Gyroid 15%?

I run Ellis Print guy, Max. acceleration and speed gcode and end-up with the following:

max_velocity: 800
max_accel: 17000
max_z_velocity: 300
max_z_accel: 350
square_corner_velocity: 5.0

Last night I printed my Larger Overhang Test Print in PLA before the acceleration and speed testing with full infil and fan at 70% with [fan]  at max_power: 0.5 and I got ok results up to 60 degrees. I will "crank-up" the M220 (Speed factor) to 200% with the new acceleration and speed valious,

[NikosSprocket]

Today, I re-run the Larger Overhang Test Print and I got some very surprising good results!

I modifed the PrusaSlicer Speed and Filament Cooling settings as seen below and actually it printed everything to 90 degrees overhangs, with some drooling at 85 degrees!!

The quality of the bottom started degrading around 70 degrees; see photos.