Kirigami Bed for Voron 0.1

[ChicagoKeri]

Hi!

I couldn't find any thread for the Kirigami bed with search, so I thought I would make one here.  If it should be somewhere else, could a mod please move it?

So anyway, Having recently completed my Voron 0.1, I've been noticing a steady decrease in print quality.

In particular, a recent Voron Cube was almost a millimeter too short!  So while looking around, I noticed that the bed mount had come loose.  Unfortunately, the standard bed mount is held together by many 3mm bolts and nuts, and few of them are easily accessible and nearly all of them had become quite loose.

Fortunately, I had previously decided on a Kirigami bed mount, it recently arrived and I had not only printed all of the plastic parts but also sourced the 2mm x 4mm bolts needed to attach it.

Getting the old bed mount out was not easy.  Once removed, I also found that the anti-backlash nut had quite a lot of friction, which I had read about in a different thread here. 

Reducing the excess friction was as simple as clipping the anti-backlash spring down by about 1/3 and installing the Kirgami was relatively easy... because I had a tiny ball-end allen wrench. (1.5mm?)  I thought to weigh the assembles while they were out:  The standard mount with all plastics was about 120 grams and the Kirigami with an optional plastic front was 95 grams.

All back together and at least printing as well as it was.  Wonderful!

And, should the Kirigami work itself loose, all of the bolts are easily accessible from the front but bolts in metal parts don't usually do that.

Sorry, I didn't take pictures during assembly.  The thing on the Right is a NeverMore air de-stinkifier thing with activated carbon and a fan.

[motocoder]

Thanks for starting this thread. I have a Kiragami mount, but I haven't assembled my v0.1 yet. I did print the parts on the Kiragami github page, but I didn't see any assembly instructions.

Edited June 27, 2022 by motocoder

[smirk]

Rather serendipitous, I just spent several hours battling with a kirigami bed on my new Voron build . I have two of them, the first was pretty easy to retro-fit; the second is part of a clean build. Clearly not all kirigami beds are created equal! I didn't think to weigh my set up first but my bed appears to be made out of steel so I strongly suspect is way heavier than the stock bed.

4 hours ago, ChicagoKeri said:

I had a tiny ball-end allen wrench. (1.5mm?)

My big issue was the M2x4 bolts that I got. Unfortunately they socket on them is only 1.3mm (!) and I don't have a 1.3mm ball-ended hex key. To say I struggled with my fat sausage fingers and a twiddly little straight 1.3mm key was an understatement.

Where did you get your M2x4 bolts?

[DangerBit]

I can't remember if my kirigami kit came with bolts, somehow I have flat head M2x4 screws on mine -- no idea where those came from. But you can get some M2x4 socket head screws at bolt depot here.

[motocoder]

15 hours ago, smirk said:

Rather serendipitous, I just spent several hours battling with a kirigami bed on my new Voron build . I have two of them, the first was pretty easy to retro-fit; the second is part of a clean build. Clearly not all kirigami beds are created equal! I didn't think to weigh my set up first but my bed appears to be made out of steel so I strongly suspect is way heavier than the stock bed.

My big issue was the M2x4 bolts that I got. Unfortunately they socket on them is only 1.3mm (!) and I don't have a 1.3mm ball-ended hex key. To say I struggled with my fat sausage fingers and a twiddly little straight 1.3mm key was an understatement.

Where did you get your M2x4 bolts?

Yes, I have two of them, and neither is very straight. But I think it's the two tabs that attach to the linear rail that are critical; they need to be parallel and separated the correct distance with the holes perpendicular. One of mine looks OK, the other not so much.

I saw a video from Adam at Vector3d, and he ended up using TPU spacers to prevent binding of the rails when the kirigami was installed.

[Andrew2.4]

I retrofitted my kirigami kit and found the following installation guide very useful by 3DP +ME

https://3dpandme.com/2022/03/12/funssor-kirigami-bed-upgrade-for-the-voron-0-1/

[ChicagoKeri]

16 hours ago, smirk said:

Rather serendipitous, I just spent several hours battling with a kirigami bed on my new Voron build . I have two of them, the first was pretty easy to retro-fit; the second is part of a clean build. Clearly not all kirigami beds are created equal! I didn't think to weigh my set up first but my bed appears to be made out of steel so I strongly suspect is way heavier than the stock bed.

My big issue was the M2x4 bolts that I got. Unfortunately they socket on them is only 1.3mm (!) and I don't have a 1.3mm ball-ended hex key. To say I struggled with my fat sausage fingers and a twiddly little straight 1.3mm key was an understatement.

Where did you get your M2x4 bolts?

The bolts I got are part of an iExcel set of 2mm bolts from Amazon. The set came with a 1.5mm allen wrench which fits the bolts nicely but doesn't help with the Kirigami. The ball-ended hex key was part of a set I got years ago.

[ChicagoKeri]

21 minutes ago, Andrew2.4 said:

I retrofitted my kirigami kit and found the following installation guide very useful by 3DP +ME

https://3dpandme.com/2022/03/12/funssor-kirigami-bed-upgrade-for-the-voron-0-1/

That is a very nice well-explained guide but I did it a bit differently.

Rather than remove the entire assembly and risk dropping a slider as well as loosing the position of the rails, I left the Z axis linear rails and the mounting channels alone.

Instead, I figured out that all of the bolts that hold the original heatbed mount / carrier can be accessed if you either remove the back panel or drill holes in it big enough for an allen wrench / hex key.  First I removed the heated bed nuts and springs and tied the bed back out of the way with the wire still connected.  Once I had all of the bolts out that hold the rear aluminum extrusion to the plastic mounts, I worked the extrusions up and out, removed the Left plastic mount, and then unbolted the Right mount from the slider swung it up and removed the bolts from the cable chain end.  It was not necessary to cut or disconnect any of the wires.

Once the old bed carrier was out of the way, installing the Kirigami was much simpler.  The wire can be routed easily without disconnecting and all of the bolts are accessible from the front, with only the tiny 2mm x 4mm  bolts that hold the Kirigami to the sliders being a bit tricky.  My Kirigami lined up perfectly with the sliders with the lead screw nut mount bolts loose.  First tighten the sliders, then the center section / lead screw nut mount.   

As Nero3D pointed out, some preload / stiffness of the Z axis is acceptable. Mine was a bit stiff but not bad enough to loosen up the structure to realign things.

Hope this helps...

[motocoder]

1 hour ago, Andrew2.4 said:

I retrofitted my kirigami kit and found the following installation guide very useful by 3DP +ME

https://3dpandme.com/2022/03/12/funssor-kirigami-bed-upgrade-for-the-voron-0-1/

Thanks for this.

[motocoder]

I gave up on this. I paid for two of these things, and neither one is even remotely close to bent properly. And trying to correct it myself seems like an exercise in futility. 

[smirk]

1 minute ago, motocoder said:

neither one is even remotely close to bent properly

I can sympathise, it took me a bit to get the mounting "flaps" lined up and flat/perpendicular to the MGN7 carriages. I did have to resort to clamping them to a tooling plate to get them working. I would say perseverance pays off as (when they work and can be mounted well) they do work really well.

[motocoder]

10 hours ago, smirk said:

I can sympathise, it took me a bit to get the mounting "flaps" lined up and flat/perpendicular to the MGN7 carriages. I did have to resort to clamping them to a tooling plate to get them working. I would say perseverance pays off as (when they work and can be mounted well) they do work really well.

I'm going to move forward with the stock build for now, and get that working first even though I know retrofitting will be harder. I might also look into machining something that doesn't require the inaccurate bends. 

[smirk]

I retrofitted my first bed and it's wasn't that awful, I've had more issues with my installation from scratch!?

[smirk]

Your comments about things being bent all wrong got me looking again at my second bed, and sure enough the "flaps" are out of alignment. So whilst I clamp them (yet again) I was rummaging and stumbled across a solid version that is more akin to the stock bed (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004275636323.html) I can't see how to attach the nut (I presume there's some mounting holes) but the images don't show that angle....

[motocoder]

1 hour ago, smirk said:

Your comments about things being bent all wrong got me looking again at my second bed, and sure enough the "flaps" are out of alignment. So whilst I clamp them (yet again) I was rummaging and stumbled across a solid version that is more akin to the stock bed (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004275636323.html) I can't see how to attach the nut (I presume there's some mounting holes) but the images don't show that angle....

Seems worth a try. Machined aluminum instead of sheet metal, and it's cheaper.

[Toftwin]

Is it possible to have some information please @smirk about your experience with this solid bed ?

... as you know I'm actually sourcing parts for my V0, and Kirigami or solid bed is one of my numerous questions

[motocoder]

38 minutes ago, Toftwin said:

Is it possible to have some information please @smirk about your experience with this solid bed ?

... as you know I'm actually sourcing parts for my V0, and Kirigami or solid bed is one of my numerous questions

I got one. It weighs a lot. More than 3 times the Kirigami. 

By the way , LDO has manufactured a Kirigami bed. In theory, this would not be subject to the incredibly bad bend problem that we've seen when the retailer is bending them.  I am told that ETA on arrival to US stores is ~3 weeks - not sure about other countries.

[smirk]

@Toftwin I found my second kirigami bed a challenge (you can see my woes in My build diary). I had chosen a supplier who was listed on the kirigami github as "official". It is made of stainless steel and is surprisingly heavy. It's definitely robust. My first Kirigami bed (and I forget where I bought it) was aluminium and didn't seem to be half as much hassle. Having said that once I get my second V0 built I plan on stripping the first and rebuilding it (applying what I've learnt this time around) so there's a small chance the first bed is jiggered in some way 

For me the challenge was getting the mounting tabs level and parallel: both to each other and the MGN rail carriages. I ended up having to use a couple of shims to get things level. Any slight twist in the bed translates straight through to the MGN carriages and rails and prevents  things from moving smoothly.

Knowing what I know now, I think would make the next bed easier to sort (well perhaps less frustrating). I guess I assumed (coming from a recommended supplier) that it would be reasonably straight and level/parallel. It wasn't it was pretty poorly manufactured (bent and twisted). Guess the lesson is assume nothing and don't buy a kirigami bed from PrintyPlease.

 

As for the alternative solid bed that's in the post (still), however, beyond out and out bad manufacturing (holes in the wrong place) I am not expecting it to be problematic (I would not need to bend it into shape)......granted that's me assuming things and being hopelessly optimistic. As  soon as I get my hands on it I shall share my experience.