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Voron Trident 350 extremely slow build


mbunjes

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Slight hiccup with the Z-end stop. I consider myself reasonably adept at soldering but the two tiny wires that connect the micro switch to the jst connector are impossible. Because they are so short, when you heat one end , the other end comes loose.
Have to get creative.

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1 hour ago, mbunjes said:

Have to get creative.

In the past, I've resorted to ice packs on the end I didn't want to heat (not saying it was easy) as didn't have any of that fancy heat blocking putty stuff that probably should be used for the purpose

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For the Sexbolt, double check the fitment on that printed part. I had to file down that upper curve to get the bolt as close as I wanted to the back edge of the bed. I also had to clean up the interior to get the PCB to fit such that I was happy--though that's likely down to the print quality of the bridges. Once that was resolved, it's been working flawlessly.

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Definitely enjoyed the build thus far. This feels a bit like the end of the season for a fav series on Netflix (at least I know it'll be back for another season). Clearly you just need the grand season finale - some cliff-hanger....did he get caught cheating with sex-bolt on his long-time z-stop? Was it really not a Trident?!?!

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You worried it's not enough or too much 😉

Must be "correct" if generous, even the V0 is listed as 100ft (I'm old I refuse to deal in metres, that's why we fly space probes into planets); I am interested the the Switchwire it's also 100ft but the Trident and 2.4 are 250ft....perhaps sized for the max option.

I guess those wires are intended to make all the wiring harness so four cores for each motor, in addition to the end-stop things. You probably do get through it (and better to have a bit more than not)

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It just seems a ridiculous amount of wire...people are recommending 22AWG instead of 24 AWG because of the higher strand count...which is even more expensive....I have the correct silicone wires so maybe I shouldn't overthink it.

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I wouldn't over think it, as long as you haven't had to sell a kidney to get the wire (always sell someone else's first) then you have the correct wire.

I cannot really imagine what 22AWG really brings to the party beyond increased bulk and a capacity to carry more (unnecessary) amps? More resilience to flexing? Guess it's how you choose to define "better"

 

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8 hours ago, mbunjes said:

Ok, what's the story with those knurled nuts? Do they just serve as fat spacers?

Yes they are heat resistant spacers for the bed, to lift it off the extrusion so the heater pad is not touching from any metal. I did not use the knurled nuts in my build as I could not source any locally. Instead I used a 10mmdiameter, 10mm height aluminium spacer.IMG_2530.thumb.jpeg.98ab12f77ba35056b60a6d2f1a98e418.jpeg

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