What if I cannot print ABS reliably?

[Demosth]

I see that the documentation indicates I should print part in ABS, what if my current printer stinks at ABS prints?

[Demosth]

There are no official vendors for printed parts, but some vendors may offer printed parts as well.

Esun ABS+ is easier to print without warping, even if you can only use a cardboard enclosure. Alternatively, you can submit a request through the "Print it Forward" (PIF) system on the Official Voron Discord. PIF is run by the community for the benefit of the community. So that will always be the safest place to purchase printed parts.  You can also take a look in the "Marketplace Forum" here on TeamFDM.com for functional printed parts.

[whatever_you_want_to_say]

I cannot print ABS - my Ender 3 is not enclosed and sits in my office.  But I would love to print out all the printed parts for a Voron 2.4 myself Why would it not be recommended to print with Polycarbonate or this BioPolymer filament for the Afterburner parts? (both have a higher HDT and VST than ABS) and PETG for the motor and belt mounts?

[Demosth]

Long story short, ABS is WELL tested and it is the material that a Voron is designed to use. While you certainly can try other materials do so at your own risk, knowing that it could be too brittle, too stiff, too flexible, or doesn't withstand the rigors of printing well.

Printing with other materials can work, but if you have issues this would be one of the first things that are brought up as a potential cause

Hope this helps!

[thien]

I have better results in printing ABS on my prusa mini than PETG. So ABS is more easy than PETG. 

[claudermilk]

10 hours ago, thien said:

I have better results in printing ABS on my prusa mini than PETG. So ABS is more easy than PETG. 

I like hearing that. I'm in the last steps of building my Mini+ and printing a set of ABS parts for a Trident is on it's to-do list. If I can ask, what filament and settings are working for you?

[thien]

Pretty Much prusa mini standard 0.20mm quality setting with voron specified print settings from discord which is the following:

Here’s a quick copy paste from Volcom:

Q) What are the recommended print settings for Voron parts?

A)

• 0.2mm layer height, force .4mm extrusion width, 40% infill, 4 perimeters, and 5 top/bottom layers.
• The following parts should be 5 perimeters, 8 top and bottom layers and 50% infill: xy_topbrace_left, xy_topbrace_right, idler_frame_left_lower/upper, and idler_frame_right_lower/upper. These only appear on V2 Printers
• Supports are not required.
• Recommended Infill Pattern is Fast Honeycomb in S3D, other valid infill is as follows: Gyroid, Cubic, Grid and Triangle.
• Tested Slicers are as follows: S3D, PrusaSlicer, Cura, and KISS
• We do not recommend using Pathio to slice your parts.
• Approved filament is either ABS or ABS+.
• No, PETG will not work. Dont use polycarbonate or nylon either, machines have failed with these materials catastrophically.
• Filled filaments make your shit look awesome, but much more prone to layer separation, dont use them
• No annealed PLA, its too brittle and has absolutely shit tolerances after the annealing process.
• Standard PLA is only acceptable on items outside the chamber; ie: display housing, skirts, panel clips, handles.
• Do not print any of the motion system in anything but ABS.

 

I used Anycubic ABS filament. Why? it was on discount :). It was my first time printing ABS, and I would like it to be a cheap experience. As I knew I have to get trial and error to get it right. But surprisingly it is a lot easier than PETG (I have only printed in PETG before because it does not leave a bad smell in my appartment)

As for the filament Abs setting I use the Generic ABS in prucaslicer, but under filament setting I set the Extrusion multiphlier to 1.1 and lowered the noozle temperatur from 255 to 248, which works for my printer. The rest is standard Generic ABS setting from prusaslicer.

From my trials and errors, the crucial parts, is to get the first layer calibration right and the perfect filament temperatur for the specific filament brand. For me It works really well that my z-offset is closer to the bed than normal, but not so close that you get the nozzle jammed from long hour printing. So you get a thin translucent stroke. The prints gets simply more smooth by doing that.  I printed on the prusa mini in roomtemperatur of 20 degree Celcius, so enclosure was not a problem for me. 

 

Edited November 11, 2021 by thien

[claudermilk]

16 hours ago, thien said:

Pretty Much prusa mini standard 0.20mm quality setting with voron specified print settings from discord which is the following:

Here’s a quick copy paste from Volcom:

Q) What are the recommended print settings for Voron parts?

A)

• 0.2mm layer height, force .4mm extrusion width, 40% infill, 4 perimeters, and 5 top/bottom layers.
• The following parts should be 5 perimeters, 8 top and bottom layers and 50% infill: xy_topbrace_left, xy_topbrace_right, idler_frame_left_lower/upper, and idler_frame_right_lower/upper. These only appear on V2 Printers
• Supports are not required.
• Recommended Infill Pattern is Fast Honeycomb in S3D, other valid infill is as follows: Gyroid, Cubic, Grid and Triangle.
• Tested Slicers are as follows: S3D, PrusaSlicer, Cura, and KISS
• We do not recommend using Pathio to slice your parts.
• Approved filament is either ABS or ABS+.
• No, PETG will not work. Dont use polycarbonate or nylon either, machines have failed with these materials catastrophically.
• Filled filaments make your shit look awesome, but much more prone to layer separation, dont use them
• No annealed PLA, its too brittle and has absolutely shit tolerances after the annealing process.
• Standard PLA is only acceptable on items outside the chamber; ie: display housing, skirts, panel clips, handles.
• Do not print any of the motion system in anything but ABS.

I used Anycubic ABS filament. Why? it was on discount :). It was my first time printing ABS, and I would like it to be a cheap experience. As I knew I have to get trial and error to get it right. But surprisingly it is a lot easier than PETG (I have only printed in PETG before because it does not leave a bad smell in my appartment)

As for the filament Abs setting I use the Generic ABS in prucaslicer, but under filament setting I set the Extrusion multiphlier to 1.1 and lowered the noozle temperatur from 255 to 248, which works for my printer. The rest is standard Generic ABS setting from prusaslicer.

From my trials and errors, the crucial parts, is to get the first layer calibration right and the perfect filament temperatur for the specific filament brand. For me It works really well that my z-offset is closer to the bed than normal, but not so close that you get the nozzle jammed from long hour printing. So you get a thin translucent stroke. The prints gets simply more smooth by doing that.  I printed on the prusa mini in roomtemperatur of 20 degree Celcius, so enclosure was not a problem for me. 

Thanks. So pretty much exactly what Voron says. I plan on trying eSun ABS+ as I've read it's "ABS on easy mode" which sounds good to me. I'm holding on to the box the printer came in as an ad-hoc enclosure if needed.

[MoeDope]

On 11/9/2021 at 2:18 PM, whatever_you_want_to_say said:

I cannot print ABS - my Ender 3 is not enclosed and sits in my office.  But I would love to print out all the printed parts for a Voron 2.4 myself Why would it not be recommended to print with Polycarbonate or this BioPolymer filament for the Afterburner parts? (both have a higher HDT and VST than ABS) and PETG for the motor and belt mounts?

many out there have printed all parts in abs, you can rig an enclosure out of cardboard box and some tape, wont be pretty but it gets the job done. another alternative is PIF or seen some selling them on etsy and ebay.

[whatever_you_want_to_say]

29 minutes ago, MoeDope said:

many out there have printed all parts in abs, you can rig an enclosure out of cardboard box and some tape, wont be pretty but it gets the job done. another alternative is PIF or seen some selling them on etsy and ebay.

That's exactly what I have done and with esun abs+ it's printing beautifully (post Ellis' tuning guide).  I've got nearly all parts completed, just waiting on CW2 and SB to drop and then I also have to print the X carriage parts.  Still sourcing other components though, I won't be starting to build for a while yet.