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Put some holes under your print to avoid warping.


PorcoMaster

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Hello guys, i always have problems with warping on first layer, and i think i found a good solution.

i found this blog post talking about the problem

https://hackaday.com/2024/10/14/what-actually-causes-warping-in-3d-prints/

however as much as the explanation is really good, the solution is bad explained, until someone explained a little better on comments, today was the first day that i remembered about it and i tested in a spacer that i had to do with a 1.0 nozzle and 1 hour time the first one warped like crazy, the second one i added a bunch 8mm holes with 4 mm depth, and it solved the warping problem like magic. surely further testing is required, but i think it might help people in the future.

 

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Yup, It all comes down to shrinkage. For ASA/ABS it's between 0.4-0.7% on a part that's say 100mm long... you can see up to 0.7mm of shrinkage.

The rule of thumb for injection molded plastic parts is to try to maintain a uniform wall thickness throughout the part. 

3D Printed parts can be solid and don't necessarily need to adhere to that rule but... too dense of an infill and lots of solid layers and perimeters can definitely make parts warp.

So, you can redesign the part, or you can play around with layers, perimeters and infill settings and get a good part without redesigning. Obviously, one must factor in the desired strength of the part when reducing infill, etc.

Lastly... I switched over to Nano Polymer Adhesive... I can pretty much print anything with zero warping.

image.thumb.png.308f034619bd8b45f2a83f5f403625c6.png

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1 hour ago, TitusADuxass said:

I like the idea of printing ABS at PLA bed temps, that's got to reduce power consumption significantly.

Printing a layer of PLA and then printing ABS over it is a pretty cool idea although it could be a pain for us single filament printer folks but definitely not impossible.

Of course, when I post things up, like the Nano Polymer, I tend to leave out the history of all the other crap I tried that didn't work... I'm just going straight to the thing that does work. 

Here's a quick list of what I tried. I've put a score number after each, 1 = Don't bother, 2 = works pretty good and 3 = awesome.

Everything is based on a textured PEI sheet and my printers are in a controlled air conditioned environment aka my office.

Clean sheet with no adhesion promoter = 1.5

Hairspray (Aquanet) = 2

Elmers Glue Stick = 2

Magigoo = 2.5

Nano Polymer = 3

Of course everyone's mileage will vary, this is just my experience.

 

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2 hours ago, claudermilk said:

That Visionminer glue is magic. I'll use that when the usual plate cleaning routine won't work on a part and it's always solved the warping problem.

Is the glue removed with routine plate cleaning? Soap and water followed by isopropyl.

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@PFarm The vision miner glue is the Nano Polymer that I posted.

Yes it can very easily be removed with the standard soap/water/alcohol cleaning method.

I just drip a few drops of it on the plate and smear it around with a brush, it dries clear and leaves little to no residue on your parts.

It's expensive, I got the large size and after a few hundred or so prints I've only used about 5% of the bottle.

Really nice stuff.

Nano Polymer Adhesive – Vision Miner

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4 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

I watched this the other day - 

He has made more progress on his technique in his latest video. I want to play with the concept if I can ever get my TradRack up and running.

23 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

I switched over to Nano Polymer Adhesive... I can pretty much print anything with zero warping.

For me, it almost sticks too well so I try to run the bed clean if I can get away with it.

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@Penatr8tor @mvdveer Both my printers have good adhesion without any help, but I can see using the Nano Polymer when I have a tall piece but a small footprint on the plate itself. Thanks for the info on how to apply it. Yeah, it's pricey at $60 CND (large bottle) here, but if you use very little, it will last a long time.

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21 hours ago, atrushing said:

For me, it almost sticks too well so I try to run the bed clean if I can get away with it.

Agree, I've had some recent prints where the parts released fine but I had some areas where I had to get under the skirt with a knife in a couple places to get it off. It's still good stuff though.

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On 11/14/2024 at 3:09 PM, Penatr8tor said:

Printing a layer of PLA and then printing ABS over it is a pretty cool idea although it could be a pain for us single filament printer folks but definitely not impossible.

In Orca with a bit of practice it's remarkably easy.

Go to the print preview, slide down to layer 2, right click and add a pause, unload the first filament,  load the 2nd, extrude a 100mm to purge the nozzle and then resume print.

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16 minutes ago, TitusADuxass said:

In Orca with a bit of practice it's remarkably easy.

Go to the print preview, slide down to layer 2, right click and add a pause, unload the first filament,  load the 2nd, extrude a 100mm to purge the nozzle and then resume print.

Agree. I just don't want to fart around with manually swapping filaments.

BTW... How's your VzBot holding up?

I'm getting some really nice ASA prints on mine. Pay no attention to the vertical layers, this Polymaker white ASA prints like crap. it's strong but I get nonuniform extrusion between layers and of course Nano Polymer and zero warping.

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