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can someone help with this noise ?


PorcoMaster

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Look guy, i am not a total newbie, i already designed a 3d printer from scratch, even thought i used the voron 2.4 as base, and i modified my cr-10s pro so much that i doubt it could resemble a cr-10s pro.

thing is there is a noise that is driving me crazy and i am sure it's also the problem of several prints problems i am having, and i am sure that if you guys hear it you might as well know what is happening, but i don't, and again driving me crazy.

i know it's probably simple, and i will hit myself as soon as i find the problem

also probably coming from the Z axis on the right, already lubricated, even knowing it's probably not the problem, maybe alignment, i don't want to rebuild this machine for the 10th time.

here is the video any tips ?
 

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18 hours ago, PorcoMaster said:

i already designed a 3d printer from scratch,

If you determine that it's the leadscrew and/or nut... Then it won't be a problem to design a better mount so that you can use a higher quality nut.

There are quite a few out there that will not only eliminate noise but also reduce backlash. 

FWIW... You might just need to disassemble the leadscrew and nut and give it a good clean and re-lube, looks like it's on the dry side.

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7 hours ago, RopusLongus said:

Sounds pretty like a misalignment of the t8.

Could be possible it's not in a 90 degree angle or the t8 rod has some scars at one area.

Take a look at it carefully.

thank will take a closer look into scars, i appreciate the comment.

2 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

If you determine that it's the leadscrew and/or nut... Then it won't be a problem to design a better mount so that you can use a higher quality nut.

There are quite a few out there that will not only eliminate noise but also reduce backlash. 

FWIW... You might just need to disassemble the leadscrew and nut and give it a good clean and re-lube, looks like it's on the dry side.

that is true, i am just postponing disassembling this printer for so long haha, but yeah i think this time i cannot run away from simple disassembling it.

2 hours ago, nvanstaden said:

as mr penatr8tor said.. also on top of the rod coupler there seems to be some debris, if this is from the lead screw or the nut, i would change those out. while your at it look at the wobble x. did wonders for my i3 mega s.

yeah, i will see how much it's for just buying a new one, it should not be too expensive.

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31 minutes ago, PorcoMaster said:

yeah, i will see how much it's for just buying a new one, it should not be too expensive.

The delrin (POM) nuts are very smooth and can even be run dry. There are also versions that can be adjusted to remove backlash as well.

If you have access to Amazon, you can get a couple leadscrews and nuts for under $20 USD. Cheap enough to just replace them.

Lastly, If you take the leads screws out of the printer... that's a good time to roll them on a flat surface to make sure they're not bent.

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56 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

The delrin (POM) nuts are very smooth and can even be run dry. There are also versions that can be adjusted to remove backlash as well.

If you have access to Amazon, you can get a couple leadscrews and nuts for under $20 USD. Cheap enough to just replace them.

Lastly, If you take the leads screws out of the printer... that's a good time to roll them on a flat surface to make sure they're not bent.

yeah, i have access to amazon and even saw some kits for 14 dollars. that sounds a straight buy, however do you have any recommendation or brands that i should look for or avoid ?

yes, if i do remove i will check on a friends precision surface table, but if i do remove i might as well just replace with a new one, this is originally a cr-10s pro v1, it has about 10 years with me, it should be time to replace both lead screws i think ?

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7 minutes ago, PorcoMaster said:

but if i do remove i might as well just replace with a new one, this is originally a cr-10s pro v1, it has about 10 years with me, it should be time to replace both lead screws i think ?

I would say it's time to replace.

As for which is best... Your guess is as good as mine. They all probably fit into the category of good enough, plus it's cheap so why not, right?

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9 minutes ago, nvanstaden said:

convert it to belt z 😄 quit being lazy

i seriously thought about that last time i opened the box and added an extra MCU, so i could control both Zs and have lead screw leveling working, but i also want to make this project work

that i am working on, so i was just trying to make the cr-10s pro consistent enough, so i can work with the voron tower. but yeah i am almost on the time to just go dor the belt z, i will study it, if i do not need to open the box once more, i might as well look into it haha.

 

 

6 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

I would say it's time to replace.

As for which is best... Your guess is as good as mine. They all probably fit into the category of good enough, plus it's cheap so why not, right?

Yeah for sure,i really appreciate your time to respond me.

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23 minutes ago, nvanstaden said:

https://kevinakasam.com/belt-driven-ender-3/

i did this on my cr10-type.

if the extrusions are the same its really great. also allows you higher z speed. and eliminates z banding as long as your rollers are in good repair.

yeah at the time i thought in doing a switchwire, but if i think this through, i don't need a switchwire, just doing the belt Z should be possible. did you had to buy another motor or used the same ?

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1 hour ago, nvanstaden said:

used the same. funny story im gonna convert it to switchwire. im cramped on space and the enclosure for the cr10 with all the brackets etc is just that tiny little too big.no problem with the belt system though.

yeah, so i have adhd, 98%, i think you are considered adhd after you hit 60% or something so i am text book adhd dialed to 10.

i cannot see this types of recommendation, first i saw it and started researching, then if i were to do that i need to go for linear rails right why not they are amazing, and i already converted the X to linear. goddamn the project is expensive again.

well anyway, i just got clarity, there is not necessity for linear rails, lead screws are as precise as expensive linear rail, there is no need for speed on Z axis and i will need to change then anyway if i want i were to just fix it or go to belt Z

so i decided to buy a new lead screw and pom wheels and replace both sides or one side still unsure, either way, and then if the printer is fixed i can start printing all parts to convert to belt Z overtime.

i appreciate it thou. i love a new project. i just hope i can finish this one hahaha

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Hi there! I don't have any experience with this style of printer, but I did notice something in your video that I'm curious about. The bracket on the right hand side which holds the leadscrew nut looks like it might be bent beyond 90°. It could just be the camera angle but I think it's worth checking. To my ear something sounds constrained that's going to wear out any parts you throw at it until the geometry is fixed. Good luck, have fun!

Edited by Glengus
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On 9/18/2024 at 5:17 PM, Glengus said:

Hi there! I don't have any experience with this style of printer, but I did notice something in your video that I'm curious about. The bracket on the right hand side which holds the leadscrew nut looks like it might be bent beyond 90°. It could just be the camera angle but I think it's worth checking. To my ear something sounds constrained that's going to wear out any parts you throw at it until the geometry is fixed. Good luck, have fun!

hey thanks for the heads up, but i didn't see what you are saying could you pinpoint which video and what time  ?

i appreciate it

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OK, a day of work and i changed the V-Wheel the linear rod and the coupler, and the sounds didn't disappear, also released the tension on my supports as they could have being forcing it, also didn't solve

only thing is that the sound changed places, instead of being near the bed now it's at the top. but the noise is still there, and just when it goes down never when it goes up.

 

 

 

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On 9/20/2024 at 10:23 AM, PorcoMaster said:

hey thanks for the heads up, but i didn't see what you are saying could you pinpoint which video and what time  ?

i appreciate it

He saying that the bend in the red sheet metal bracket that the leadscrew nut is screwed to isn't 90 degrees and could be causing your issue. See image below for an example of "not 90 degrees"

image.thumb.png.4a9542f2acf2f88e2f658e7870b86a35.png

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4 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

He saying that the bend in the red sheet metal bracket that the leadscrew nut is screwed to isn't 90 degrees and could be causing your issue. See image below for an example of "not 90 degrees"

image.thumb.png.4a9542f2acf2f88e2f658e7870b86a35.png

the noise is finally gone, but i understand what you are saying and will check for sure, thanks for the clarification.

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3 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

Yep, you want it as square as possible to prevent wear and binding. 

just checked and it looks like it's one degree off, however i need to disassemble the whole printer to get to that part again,

this is the picture of what i had to do yesterday, almost 6 straight hours, i am not sure i have the patient to do again ahuauhhaha, but yeah the best solution would take it off and solve this. as the sound is gone, i will probably take 1 or 2 days to cool off before deciding.

WhatsApp Image 2024-09-24 at 10.25.04.jpeg

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14 minutes ago, PorcoMaster said:

just checked and it looks like it's one degree off, however i need to disassemble the whole printer to get to that part again,

this is the picture of what i had to do yesterday, almost 6 straight hours, i am not sure i have the patient to do again ahuauhhaha, but yeah the best solution would take it off and solve this. as the sound is gone, i will probably take 1 or 2 days to cool off before deciding.

WhatsApp Image 2024-09-24 at 10.25.04.jpeg

omg i love seeing this. as much as i hate it while doing a tear down, there is a satisfaction that can not be expressed in words when you are done.

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