No Power to Klipper Monitor

[BrentW]

Newb here. Printer was working fine yesterday.  Now, I am not getting a signal / power to the Klipper control panel screen (see blank screen pic).  Since it was working, I went to connect the board fans, which were not previously connected.  In doing that, the ribbon cable from the panel to the board pulled out.  I put it back in, but.....?  More pics.  Any suggestions to diagnose and repair?

 

 

Edited August 5 by BrentW

[asm308]

 

Looks like the display cable is under a bit of tension so it might not be seating properly in the connector or it’s possible it might have been damaged.

could you swap the RPI and whatever the board in the middle is so that the cable has a more or less straight run to the display?

another possibility is that you might have plugged the cable in backwards, easy to do, ask me how I know.

another possibility is that while refitting the cable at the pi end you may have dislodged it at the display end.

hope one of these helps 

 

[Penatr8tor]

Hey @BrentW

First and most importantly...

Turn off the power and unplug before any farting around.

You can do a quick reroute of that ribbon cable so that you get a little extra length. If you move the cable so that it goes thru one of the pass-through holes on the right (instead of the left one) you should get enough length.

To connect the ribbon cable to the Raspberry Pi, you need to:
1. Make sure that the display connector on the Raspberry PI is open by lifting the dark brown clamp part of the connector.
2. Insert the ribbon cable into the connector with the silver contacts facing the USB connectors.
3. Close the connector clamp by pushing down on both sides of it.

As for any fans you want to attach.

Every fan connection on the Octopus board has a voltage jumper that you can choose one of 3 fan voltages below the connector. 24v is closest to the connector then 12v and furthest away is 5v. Set the jumper to correspond to the voltage of whatever fan you connect to it. Below is a blowup of the fan connector bank on the Octopus 1.1 (Not the Pro). FAN0 thru FAN5 are software addressable and can be setup in your printer.cfg to either be automatic or g-code controlled by either the control panel in Mainsail/Fluidd or by g-code while printing. FAN0 and FAN1 are generally reserved for hotend fan and part cooling fan respectively. FAN2 thru FAN5 you can use for whatever you want, exhaust fan, Nevermore, electronics bay fans etc. The last two FAN6 and FAN7 are always on fans. Power is turned on and the fans turn on and don't turn off until you power off.

You can see the jumper on the blue Vin VDC for FAN0 (whatever voltage is powering the Octopus is the voltage that jumper will be. We power it with 24v so it's 24v, as are most fans on a VORON). Set your jumpers for the voltage of the fan connected to it.

The PA8, PE5, PD12, etc, designations are the pin designation for each fan port. In the printer.cfg file we can define these fans to run in various modes as well as control their operation thru code. For instance, I have two 120mm fans cooling my Pi and Octopus. When the printer is idle, both fans run at 20%. Nice steady flow of air without making a bunch of noise. When I print something, I have a little piece of code that turns the Octopus fan to 100%. When the print is done, I have another little piece of code that sets it back to 20%. You have a lot of control on the Octopus for a good number of devices.

I also added this Octopus info graphic. It's super valuable to diagnose or to setup anything upgrades you might install in the future.

 

 

[BrentW]

Wow; thanks.  That is the full credit answer and amazingly helpful!

[Penatr8tor]

26 minutes ago, BrentW said:

Wow; thanks.  That is the full credit answer and amazingly helpful!

You are welcome.

FWIW... That ribbon cable looks a little rough. If you find that after re-routing and re-connecting that the klipperscreen still doesn't work, then order one from Amazon. They're under $10 and come in variable lengths. Obviously, it's better to be a little long than too short and since there's plenty of room under the hood you can route it thru the cable channels.

Pro Tip: Mark the inside of the cable channel covers, top, bottom, left, right, etc. with a sharpie so you can easily put them back onto the correct cable channel.

There's also a good list of tools, crimpers, etc here that you can refer to, to pick up some really useful stuff. Not just for building printers but for regular everyday printing. At a minimum you'll need some flush cutters for cutting filament and hex drivers for occasional screw tightening and maintenance. Printer do millions of jerky back and forth motions over the course of it's lifetime and things will get loose, quality will suffer, and you will question, why is my printer printing so crappy... it was so good a couple months ago. Welp, thing got loose. And since you bought it off of FB... it might not be a bad idea to go around checking the tightness of screws. 90% of the screws on a Voron are M3 socket head cap screws (SHCS) or button head cap screws (BHCS) that use 2.5mm & 2mm hex (Allen) keys respectively. My personal favorite are the Wiha hex drivers without the ball ends as opposed to the traditional bent hex keys. But whatever you like/need right.

Anyways, Good luck and let us know how things went.