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Voron 0.1/2 Upgrade


TitusADuxass

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I decided that it was time to replace the troublesome Manta M5P/CB1 combination in my V0.

I've gone for a BTT SKR Pico, a BTT Pi 2 v1.0 and a BTT U2C. I'm keeping the EBB36 - got to go Can baby!!

PXL_20240721_091221638.RAW-01.COVER.thumb.jpg.a50a1053a8791debcf2e058b8076a973.jpg

I'm just printing out the mounting for the Pi and SKR  - https://www.printables.com/model/553387-ft-ems-voron-v02-v2-electronics-management-system which looks like a neat and tidy solution.

p.s. - I've got a bit of a thick head this morning, I was out drinking the dirty beer stuff last night.

 

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33 minutes ago, TitusADuxass said:

I've got a bit of a thick head this morning, I was out drinking the dirty beer stuff last night.

It's not October yet! But then who wants to wait for October Fest to have a beer!.  Prost!

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45 minutes ago, TitusADuxass said:

I'm just printing out the mounting for the Pi and SKR  - https://www.printables.com/model/553387-ft-ems-voron-v02-v2-electronics-management-system which looks like a neat and tidy solution.

Now that took me down a whole new rabbit hole - oh dear!!

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21 minutes ago, TitusADuxass said:

Boards mounted

@mvdveer sorry mate, but it is a really good solution. I think it'll be going on my v2.4 as well.

Looking really good - I am liking what I see.

Will most likely implement it on the machines going in for an update/refurbishment (V0.1 conversion to V0.2 and CNC gear on the Voron 300) Have downloaded all his files, so have them ready

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So, I learned something about CAN from the RatRig people. Mikkel Schmidt and Helge Keck, the two guys that wrote RatOS 2.1 are actively helping people on discord and when I mentioned CANBUS in something they corrected me by stating that Klipper doesn't really use CAN... it's transmitting over USB. The only thing communicating via CAN is from the CAN board to the CAN USB adapter card and Klipper just sees the toolhead board as another controller. That's why RatRig just uses the USB coming off the board. Of course, if you want a nice clean one cable umbilical... use the can-USB card or you'll need to run a couple extra wires for 24v.

I'm not 100% sure of how correct I am on this as I'm still learning so, disclaimer 😆

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1 hour ago, Penatr8tor said:

So, I learned something about CAN from the RatRig people. Mikkel Schmidt and Helge Keck, the two guys that wrote RatOS 2.1 are actively helping people on discord and when I mentioned CANBUS in something they corrected me by stating that Klipper doesn't really use CAN... it's transmitting over USB. The only thing communicating via CAN is from the CAN board to the CAN USB adapter card and Klipper just sees the toolhead board as another controller. That's why RatRig just uses the USB coming off the board. Of course, if you want a nice clean one cable umbilical... use the can-USB card or you'll need to run a couple extra wires for 24v.

I'm not 100% sure of how correct I am on this as I'm still learning so, disclaimer 😆

Interesting,  very interesting. 2 more wires for 24v is not a big deal.

I'll have to have a look at RATOS.

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1 hour ago, TitusADuxass said:

Interesting,  very interesting. 2 more wires for 24v is not a big deal.

I'll have to have a look at RATOS.

Be warned... It's a bit of a gamble but on the plus side... IF you use a new MicroSD card, you can always power off, plug in the old card, and you're back. So if you want to experiment go with the 2.1-RC1 build. And be sure the printer you want to try it on is supported.

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2 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

Interesting,  very interesting. 2 more wires for 24v is not a big deal.

So, in total I had to run 4 separate cables. 2 USBs, a 24awg Fan cable and a 20awg power. They all fit into a 1/2" split Techflex wrap. 

The reason I have so many is because the part cooling fan is a 12v 4 wire and the toolhead board only supports 2 wire 24v fans. I also have the Beacon H and there's no USB on the board either, so those two items effectively double the number of cables and complexity of the setup as well. The fan was a major pain, you have to strip the glued heat shrink off, then cap off the tach wire (not used). the red, black goes to the umbilical and plugs into the always on 12v fan port for power only. The blue PWM wire is connected to gnd on one of the fan connectors. It acts just like the CPAP on startup. 😄 Full on until mainsail is up. 

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