My Voron 2.4r2 300 Build

[SteveThatcher]

I figured there was enough progress to at least outline where things are at.

My bearings are somewhere in transit. The closest that I got to a kit was buying screws & t-nuts in hardware kits from Ali (of course, r2 came out after I purchased them, so I am adding needed hardware to the kits for the actual build).

MKS Monster8 and the MKS 12384 LCD display will be the main electronics guts (I have a dislike of BTT from past experience) and a Raspberry Pi 4 2GB.

Meanwell LRS-350-24 power supply (same physical size but extra power for other things).

MC6 aluminum plate from Midwest Steel and Aluminum

Extrusions from Misumi directly

BMG LGX extruder

E3D Revo v6 hotend

printed parts are nearly complete except for skirt, hinges, and a few of the mods I will include in the build.

• Klicky Probe
• BMG LGX
• Horizontal roll holder
• Purge Bucket
• Generic power block

I am more focused on functionality rather than color scheme, so most of the build will be anodized aluminum extrusions and grey abs filament. I am running out of grey, so hinges and skirts will be black.

I am running pretty busy right at the moment, so I don't know exactly when I will cut the extrusions and start working on assembling the frame (this month is as close as I can get).

I will post a few pics once I really get started with assembly.

[Nysios3000]

Nice, have fun I love to build mine

[SteveThatcher]

All parts have officially arrived for at least one voron printer (2nd one is missing bed heater, linear rails, and BMG LGX extruder - both of them are missing panels).

I cut the extrusions down to their required length on Wednesday (I bought them all 10mm oversized, so I could precisely cut them to their required length) and tapped all the extrusions that required that on Thursday. Used a Tapmatic 30X tapping head on my drill press and created a vertical clamp to hold the extrusions for tapping. Going to setup a fixture on the drill press on Friday to add the wrench access holes to the longer extrusions.

I am going to try and take a photo of the Tapmatic setup on Friday to post here...

 

[Demosth]

On 3/24/2022 at 11:51 PM, SteveThatcher said:

I am going to try and take a photo of the Tapmatic setup on Friday to post here...

Waiting impatiently.

[SteveThatcher]

4 hours ago, Demosth said:

Waiting impatiently.

The Tapmatic setup for threading

[OneStepAhead]

Man that seems like a lot of work. What's the advantage over buying them precut and tapped? Just for fun? You look a lot more handy with tools than I am, I can barely find a screwdriver half the time 

[SteveThatcher]

I bought all the Misumi extrusions cut 10mm over for two voron machines for $100 so I could cut them precisely. The usual extrusion kit is over a hundred for just one frame set. I would rather do it myself and have more money for the rest of the parts. The cutting took an hour and all the threading took another hour (including fixture setup) for forty threaded holes.

Of course, it helps that I have built-up a machine shop over the years. I am actually an electronics engineer, but have always enjoyed machine work.

 

[SteveThatcher]

more pictures coming (maybe tomorrow)...

put the four Z drive assemblies together this last week.

Printed pinned parts for AB, XY Joint, and Idlers

Printed Z Endstop, Klicky, and LGX parts

Cut all the 5mm shaft for the two sets of pinned parts and beveled ends (28mm, 30mm, 40mm and 43mm - 28 shafts total)

Printing skirts parts currently

Build note: The 60mm fan mounting holes are too large for the standard 3mm threaded insert that come in the kits (I bought ball bearing fans off Aliexpress that had a good rating). EZ-LOC 3mm inserts fits well once the holes are enlarged just a bit

Edited April 3, 2022 by SteveThatcher

[SteveThatcher]

AB Drives, Z Drives, Z Idlers, XY Joints, exhaust fan assemblies

 

[SteveThatcher]

Skirts

Note: decided to use filtered power inlet/separate switch instead of generic block that I considered when I started the project.

Edited April 7, 2022 by SteveThatcher

[SteveThatcher]

Gantry and bed are not installed (along with belts), but I powered up the MKS Monster8 and the Raspberry Pi 4 for the first time today.  Finished wiring up AC for the power supplies and made a power cable to go from the 5 volt supply up to the Pi. Oh, NO SMOKE... (I had checked voltages and connections).  I also ignored the assembly manual for the power wiring. After designing so many pieces of equipment over the years (okay - decades), wiring is not a problem for me.

By the way, I bought the three panels set from PrintedSolid for the back and the two panels for the bottom. Nice material from Piedmont Plastics. It is aluminum clad (both sides) polyethylene sheet. It is reasonably rigid unlike some of the alternatives I have seen. PrintedSolid CNC machines the panels and they come out perfect as far as I am concerned.

Edited April 30, 2022 by SteveThatcher
added reference to PrintedSolid for panels

[SteveThatcher]

four days later - fluiddpi/moonraker/klipper on a Raspberry Pi 4B is running and klipper is running on the MKS monster8.

Note to self: ignore Makerbase's comment telling you to run a USB-C cable from the Pi to the monster8. You will not get an enumeration of the USB-C port in the Pi. Maybe there is some background configuration to "fix" the issue. Without the enumeration, you do not get a /dev/serial folder in the Pi which means you really do not have a connection to your controller. I ended up trying the USB 2 and 3 ports on the Pi, every time I booted and had the controller attached, I got a serial folder and was able to get the "id" needed to put in the printer.cfg file.

I researched and tried many things over the last few days. I never was a real linux user, so some of it was refreshing my memory. It was satisfying to make the "breakthrough" today... :).

More details - the USB-C port on the PI 4 B 2018 release has a known issue when using 3.1 smart charger cables (Pi people thought they could use one instead of two resistors for "pullups" - didn't work)  - I was using a dumb 2.0 cable. If the Pi does not see a working connected device, then it will not enumerate the serial port for the USB connection. The serial port enumerated as soon as I used a USB-A to USB-C from the Pi to the Monster8.

Edited April 30, 2022 by SteveThatcher
added Pi notes

[SteveThatcher]

Sunday May 1st - earlier last week I decided to take a better look at the BTT Octopus because of the very limited support for the Monster8 plus MKS's lack of further support once they created the github project for it (they haven't touched it in months). After spending the time with the monster8, I installed a BTT Octopus and had it up and running in less than an hour.

In my further research on the Octopus, I realized that using this board would totally eliminate the 5 volt power supply requirement for the Pi.  The octopus has a 24 volt to 5 volt switching regulator on board that is capable of 8 amps. BTT's notes say that you don't want to ramp up outside consumption up to 8 amps because of board power requirements, but the board would be quite capable of supplying the 4 amps for the Pi. The switching regulator probably has an efficiency around 80 to 90% which means that taking four amps from the 5 volt supply means you need only one amp on the 24 volt side. The board also has dupont pins to supply the Pi power over a cable (the pins also have the UART available if you do not want to use USB for a data connection.

Even with five fans (12 watts), a hotend (40 watts), seven stepper motors (35 watts), Octopus (my estimate is 5 watts - no specific numbers mentioned by BTT - I have sent them a message requesting it), the 200 watt supply is capable of handling the additional 24 watts for the Pi.

[mvdveer]

On 4/26/2022 at 2:47 PM, SteveThatcher said:

Gantry and bed are not installed (along with belts), but I powered up the MKS Monster8 and the Raspberry Pi 4 for the first time today.  Finished wiring up AC for the power supplies and made a power cable to go from the 5 volt supply up to the Pi. Oh, NO SMOKE... (I had checked voltages and connections).  I also ignored the assembly manual for the power wiring. After designing so many pieces of equipment over the years (okay - decades), wiring is not a problem for me.

By the way, I bought the three panels set from PrintedSolid for the back and the two panels for the bottom. Nice material from Piedmont Plastics. It is aluminum clad (both sides) polyethylene sheet. It is reasonably rigid unlike some of the alternatives I have seen. PrintedSolid CNC machines the panels and they come out perfect as far as I am concerned.

Very neat

[SteveThatcher]

printing the Z joints today and I expect to mount the gantry in the frame this week once I get the belting done on the gantry.  I ended up re-arranging the Octopus, SSR, and Pi positioning when I eliminated the 5 volt supply from the build.  I now have the Pi in front of the cooling fans followed by the Octopus. This arrangement makes the chassis wiring much better for everything. I will post pictures sometime this week.

I am attaching a schematic for the direct power/serial cable that I have running between the Pi and the Octopus.

Octopus_Pi_cable_schematic.pdf

Edited May 9, 2022 by SteveThatcher

[SteveThatcher]

May 10th - two Raspberry 4B 4Gig Pis showed up in the mail from Digikey along with some M5x20 BH screws I needed for the short Z block installation. Installed the gantry, ran the four Z belts and tightened up the X axis. Starting to look more like a printer... A and B belts tomorrow along with a couple of pictures...

[SteveThatcher]

here are the photos... also added an externally accessed sdcard "port" to the front left skirt

the electronics wiring will route the Z drives around the inside perimeter (stepper cables have already been cut to needed length and the proper connector type added for the Octopus.

The sdcard socket is waiting for a longer micro to sdcard socket cable assembly.

With this hardware arrangement, wiring will come from the gantry down the back middle and go right into the connectors on the Octopus for switches and hotend. The A, B, and extruder drives just go on the other side of the Octopus.

I will be adding the sdcard mod to the forum here if there is interest.

[claudermilk]

Looking good!

[SteveThatcher]

I wanted to post a "carrot" here and make you aware of a general purpose four post "tie" block for fan wiring, sensors, etc (not AC or Mains - The WAGO blocks are great for that). I needed a more compact way to combine a couple of case fans and maybe lighting when that gets added.  The block will fit any standard 20mm extrusion, so the design is not printer specific. I expect to use the design in a CNC machine for chassis wiring as well as in my voron builds.

Here is the STL that I expect to add to the mod files here on TeamFDM.  Please relay any comments for change, etc to me. Thanks!

4_Post_Wiring_Block_M3_Rail_v4.stl

It uses four M3 thermal inserts, a hammerhead M3 nut, and a button or socket head M3x12mm screw for mounting