Stealthburner Nozzle LED

[Pierre52]

During printing the Stealthburner Nozzle LED color is Red.  I want it to be White.  

Is there a simple change that I can make to the Stealthburner LED cfg file to make this happen?

 

I don't want to change anything else I just want to see how my print is going

[Chuck_Snow]

2 hours ago, Pierre52 said:

During printing the Stealthburner Nozzle LED color is Red.  I want it to be White.  

Is there a simple change that I can make to the Stealthburner LED cfg file to make this happen?

I don't want to change anything else I just want to see how my print is going

if you install the default file Stealthburner_led.cfg in it you will find.

 

'nozzle': { # Colors for nozzle states
	'heating': {'r': 0.8, 'g': 0.35, 'b': 0.0, 'w':0.0},
	'off': {'r': 0.0, 'g': 0.0, 'b': 0.0, 'w': 0.0},
	'on': {'r': 0.8, 'g': 0.8, 'b': 0.8, 'w':1.0},

and 

 

variable_colors: {
	'logo': { # Colors for logo states
	'busy': {'r': 0.4, 'g': 0.0, 'b': 0.0, 'w': 0.0},
	'cleaning': {'r': 0.0, 'g': 0.02, 'b': 0.5, 'w': 0.0},
	'calibrating_z': {'r': 0.8, 'g': 0., 'b': 0.35, 'w': 0.0},
	'heating': {'r': 0.3, 'g': 0.18, 'b': 0.0, 'w': 0.0},
	'homing': {'r': 0.0, 'g': 0.6, 'b': 0.2, 'w': 0.0},
	'leveling': {'r': 0.5, 'g': 0.1, 'b': 0.4, 'w': 0.0},
	'meshing': {'r': 0.2, 'g': 1.0, 'b': 0.0, 'w': 0.0},
	'off': {'r': 0.0, 'g': 0.0, 'b': 0.0, 'w': 0.0},
	'printing': {'r': 1.0, 'g': 0.0, 'b': 0.0, 'w': 0.0},

 

That is what you will need to change the colors by modifying those lines, I think there in % so .8 = 80% --- 1.0 = 100% 

it should still be based on RGBW  so 255, 255, 255, 255 duty cycles.   

 

'printing': {'r': 0.0, 'g': 0.0, 'b': 0.0, 'w': 1.0},     <--- this should do it 

'printing': {'r': 1.0, 'g': 1.0, 'b': 1.0, 'w': 0.0},       <---if you don't have the white pixel

I'm only guessing atm, I need to verify it but I'm pretty sure that how it works..

Hope that help, Cheers!

 

 

Edited April 19, 2023 by Chuck_Snow

[Pierre52]

OK That's great but do we change values in both areas or just swap the printing from red to white?

[claudermilk]

I'll quote myself from the other thread:

 

  

23 hours ago, claudermilk said:

I use the led-effects library. My config is backed up on GitHub--look at the led.cfg file. I have my print_start to turn the nozzle LEDs to white. One of the really noticeable benefits of the Stealthburner toolhead.

You will see there are macros in the led.cfg that issue the commands to make the changes. Just call those macros from the ones where you want to change the LEDs. So for example, define a printing LED macro to set the nozzle LEDs to white. Then call that macro from your print_start. Poof! White light on your nozzle!

 

[Pierre52]

@claudermilk OK your set up is 10 gaziliion times more complex than mine .  You also have a Macros.cfg and a LEDs. cfg.  I have neither of those

In my Stealthburner_leds.cfg I have:

[gcode_macro _sb_vars]
# User settings for the StealthBurner status leds. You can change the status colors and led
# configurations for the logo and nozzle here.
variable_colors: {
        'logo': { # Colors for logo states
            'busy': {'r': 0.4, 'g': 0.0, 'b': 0.0, 'w': 0.0},
            'cleaning': {'r': 0.0, 'g': 0.02, 'b': 0.5, 'w': 0.0},
            'calibrating_z': {'r': 0.8, 'g': 0., 'b': 0.35, 'w': 0.0},
            'heating': {'r': 0.3, 'g': 0.18, 'b': 0.0, 'w': 0.0},
            'homing': {'r': 0.0, 'g': 0.6, 'b': 0.2, 'w': 0.0},
            'leveling': {'r': 0.5, 'g': 0.1, 'b': 0.4, 'w': 0.0},
            'meshing': {'r': 0.2, 'g': 1.0, 'b': 0.0, 'w': 0.0},
            'off': {'r': 0.0, 'g': 0.0, 'b': 0.0, 'w': 0.0},
            'printing': {'r': 1.0, 'g': 0.0, 'b': 0.0, 'w': 0.0},
            'standby': {'r': 0.01, 'g': 0.01, 'b': 0.01, 'w': 0.1},
        },
        'nozzle': { # Colors for nozzle states
            'heating': {'r': 0.8, 'g': 0.35, 'b': 0.0, 'w':0.0},
            'off': {'r': 0.0, 'g': 0.0, 'b': 0.0, 'w': 0.0},
            'on': {'r': 0.8, 'g': 0.8, 'b': 0.8, 'w':1.0},
            'standby': {'r': 0.6, 'g': 0.0, 'b': 0.0, 'w':0.0},
        },
        'thermal': {
            'hot': {'r': 1.0, 'g': 0.0, 'b': 0.0, 'w': 0.0},
            'cold': {'r': 0.3, 'g': 0.0, 'b': 0.3, 'w': 0.0}

 

[gcode_macro status_printing]
gcode:
    _set_sb_leds_by_name leds="logo" color="printing" transmit=0
    set_nozzle_leds_on

 

and in my Printer.cfg I have

[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
gcode:
    G32                            ; home all axes
    G90                            ; absolute positioning
    G1 Z20 F3000                   ; move nozzle away from bed

When I wanted to change the display color from red to green it was simply a case of modifying this script in Printer.cfg

##  To control Neopixel RGB in mini12864 display
[neopixel btt_mini12864]
pin: EXP1_6
chain_count: 3
initial_RED: 0
initial_GREEN: 1
initial_BLUE: 0
color_order: RGB

 

As stated previously, my knowledge  level of Python is Zero.  All I want here is some guidance of what I change in these various scripts so that the Nozzle leds are white when printing.

Every change I have made to date results in Klipper errors.
  

 

 

[Chuck_Snow]

The only variables you need to concern your self with is the LOGO, and NOZZLE, 

these are the only things you need to change..

'printing': {'r': 1.0, 'g': 1.0, 'b': 1.0, 'w': 1.0},

on': {'r': 1.0, 'g': 1.0, 'b': 1.0, 'w':1.0},

just change the number form 1.0 to 0.0 for the color change you want.. 

r': 1.0, 'g': 1.0, 'b': 1.0, 'w':1.0  should give you what your looking for

 

this is the part that makes it work in the macro.

[gcode_macro status_printing]
gcode:
    _set_sb_leds_by_name leds="logo" color="printing" transmit=0
    set_nozzle_leds_on

[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
	description: Print Start macro called by slicer start gcode.
	gcode:
	# Parameters STATUS_PRINTING ..........

 

STATUS_PRINTING    <--- this is the part in the GCode that tell the status and what color to change to

As long as all the variable are correct it should work just fine..

Also in Mailsail there is a setting under MISC.

Sb  Leds   (0)

I'm all most done my build, I havent printed yet so I cant test the print macro at the moment.

Edited April 19, 2023 by Chuck_Snow
forgot some thing

[claudermilk]

LOL, yeah my overall config has gotten involved.  Basically what you'll see buried within my print_start  and @Chuck_Snow's example is within print_start you just call the macro that sets the LED colors.

While my led.cfg has gotten long and complex looking it's really just a whole bunch of color/effect definitions like the variable_color example above. Then macros to set LEDs to those various definitions. Then within each appropriate macro, I'll call one of those setting macros to change the LEDs. Now I can tell what stage the printer is at from across the room.

[Chuck_Snow]

@Pierre52 ok it ran my first test print and it does indeed work!!

in  the steathburner_led.cfg

 

printing': {'r': 1.0, 'g': 1.0, 'b': 1.0, 'w': 1.0},      ;This is the Logo Color you want this currently set white

on': {'r': 1.0, 'g': 1.0, 'b': 1.0, 'w':1.0},                ;This  will set the Nozzle color to White

Save the file then go to your Printer.cfg in most case for your Print Start Macro

add STATUS_PRINTING into your PRINT_START Macro

[gcode_macro PRINT_START]

description: Print Start macro called by slicer start gcode.

gcode:

	# Parameters

	STATUS_PRINTING

..........

 

Oh all most forgot 

in your slicer of choice add PRINT_START in the print start gcode section.

 

Edited April 25, 2023 by Chuck_Snow

[Pierre52]

Thanks Chuck I'll give that a try

[claudermilk]

Popping in to comment on my stupid led.cfg file. It's gotten more complex because I just installed my Rainbow Barf logo board. 

[Chuck_Snow]

2 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

Popping in to comment on my stupid led.cfg file. It's gotten more complex because I just installed my Rainbow Barf logo board. 

Lol funny I was just looking at that like 4 minutes ago ,, I mean your Stuff fine but for some that that cant Code it can be very intimidating to see all these variables, parameters, and words they never heard of, I mean I have a programing degree and Still some times have to re read a few time before it clicks in,, 

or scratch my head wondering what the tell they where trying to do..

This is a hobby for me like all the things a make or use so today I have clickily tomorrow I have Tap Next CAN bus lol... 

Some don't like change though they just want it too work it more just of a tool to them ,,, I want to get the Hardware stuff converged before I get the Barf light lol

[Chuck_Snow]

Building this Voron brough me back to my child hood when my parents would buy me Revell model of planes, Cars, the more piece the better,,,

paint each little parts before gluing.. and watch the project grow over time ,,

[PFarm]

@Chuck_Snow These are some of my childhood memories, no internet or computers back then, but working with your hands to entertain yourself was something we did. Not to mention learning some work skills at an early age.  I never leave anything stock, if it can be modded I'm in!

 

Edited April 26, 2023 by PFarm

[Chuck_Snow]

Ya I'm not young my self, I'm pushing my 50's so I have seen my fare share ,,things over the year and I come from big families if we didn't have some thing we had to make it ..

[claudermilk]

20 minutes ago, Chuck_Snow said:

Lol funny I was just looking at that like 4 minutes ago ,, I mean your Stuff fine but for some that that cant Code it can be very intimidating to see all these variables, parameters, and words they never heard of, I mean I have a programing degree and Still some times have to re read a few time before it clicks in,, 

or scratch my head wondering what the tell they where trying to do..

This is a hobby for me like all the things a make or use so today I have clickily tomorrow I have Tap Next CAN bus lol... 

Some don't like change though they just want it too work it more just of a tool to them ,,, I want to get the Hardware stuff converged before I get the Barf light lol

LOL, I get it. I hadn't been exposed to Jinja at all and only barely dabbled with Python before this. I found Alex Zellner's V2.4 config on GitHub with a lot of interesting and complex ideas. I learned a ton from that and incorporated a bunch of it. I've also cribbed ideas from several others who have posted their configs. I really need to clean mine up some, and probably put some attributions in comments.

16 minutes ago, Chuck_Snow said:

Building this Voron brough me back to my child hood when my parents would buy me Revell model of planes, Cars, the more piece the better,,,

paint each little parts before gluing.. and watch the project grow over time ,,

Cars, tanks, planes. Revell, Monogram, Tamiya. I built a ton of those. Tried getting my son into it a bit, so now I have a few kits sitting waiting to build and one near-complete that got set aside. I really ought to finish it up and build the others.

[claudermilk]

FYI, I just revised and cleaned up my led.cfg file. I now have it set up for the Rainbow Barf--so you can see the RGB + RGBW definition method. I also tweaked some case light settings where I want to mirror the effects; there's a nice, efficient method covered in the docs that I now use. I'm trying some additional effects that are untested so far. The homing one doesn't seem to work, and I'll see how the print progress meter one works--I tried to add it to case lights but not disrupt the overall white lighting too much.

[frnknstn518]

cant seem to get my barf wired properly. i am going from hartke 2 piece toolhead pcb, ti a ldo breakout board to a monster8 v2 mcu. if anyone can help i would greatly appreciate it

 

[claudermilk]

Wire up the Barf PCB just like the regular NeoPixel--the difference is all in the software there.

Solder the NeoPixel wires as shown on the PCB (5V / G / Sig).

This goes to the Aux plug, which I had to build the 2-wire run from the toolhead to the electronics bay myself. The signal wire from that goes straight to the controller--signal wire on the Octopus NeoPixel port in my case. 

To get the 5V you need, use the CT port on the breakout board and run a wire to a spare fan output set to 5V.

I have circled my 5V supply wire; that fan port is set to 5V and runs to the breakout board CT port. This is per hartk's instructions on his GitHub under LDO Kit Upgrade.

You will have to adjust according to the differences from an Octopus to Monster8.

In your config files, the chain definition changes are thus:

chain_count: 10
color_order: GRB, GRB, GRB, GRB, GRB, GRB, GRB, GRB, GRBW,  GRBW

Hope that helps.