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e-Sun ABS+ ok to use for parts?


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I was reading a post on filiments here and ran across the statement that the eSun ABS+ filament has a lower heat rating temperature and may not be suitable for printing Voron parts?

I got this awhile back and loved the look and way it printed but now concerned that the parts are not suitable for use?

Any additional details on the use of the eSun ABS+ for printed parts?

I can always print them again. 😆 1681166255763621242616194924077.thumb.jpg.f0ae9373cc865da6ec914bb811f55ca0.jpg

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18 minutes ago, bdejong11129 said:

Any additional details on the use of the eSun ABS+ for printed parts?

I have build 6 Vorons now (3x V0, 2x V2.4r2, 1X trident)  - all but one printed with e-Sun ABS+ and have not had a failure, yet. The first Voron 2 , I build more than a year ago and I am reaching temperatures of up to 64 degrees in the chamber. Just recently did some maintenance on the printer and all printed parts are in the condition they were at time of the build. The hotend mount does not show any signs of melting or warping either.

Again I think it is personal preference, cost consideration and availability. There are those on the forum that would promote ASA, which is an excellent choice - easier to print then ABS, but availability, especially here in Australia, is limited (colours, supply, etc).

The parts you have are definitely suitable for use if printed in e-Sun ABS +, and I would not hesitate to use them. No need to waste filament and reprint.

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Thanks for the input.  I have had some great results with the eSun filaments so far.  I also have some of the Paramount filament which is recommended.  However, I started with the eSun and it has printed fantastic so far.   For reference, my current Voron is printed with Amazon Basics ABS on my Prusa Mk3 so.......  While functional, they are not very aesthetically pleasing to the eye. lol

 

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I too am an eSun ABS+ fiend, at least for black. Nothing else has quite that same classy, ultra-matte finish. I haven't directly observed any sagging or shape changes over time in my V2.4, for which the base color is ABS+ black.

Here's the rub: now that you're aware that eSun ABS+ softens at a lower-than-average temperature (which is indeed the case), that fact will always be in the back of your mind when you have issues that might possibly, hypothetically be related to deflecting parts.

My V2 has consistently had trouble with probes that physically touch the bed or a Z end stop: Klicky, Unklicky, regular Z endstop, sex bolt endstop, and now Tap. On my printer, these probes work reliably when cold, but after a heat soak, they start to show some drift and inconsistency. There's also a notable difference between the first probe in a set and the subsequent repeats.

I ended up redoing all of my gantry joints in ASA just to see if it made any difference. I wish I could report that it did or it didn't, but as long as I was taking the whole toolhead and gantry apart, I took the opportunity to install a Beacon probe, which doesn't contact the bed. I'm still evaluating that probe and haven't circled back to Tap yet.

I strongly suspect that switching to ASA makes no difference. The removed parts didn't show any obvious sagging or deviation. But again, my point isn't that ABS+ creates problems or doesn't, it's that you can't be 100% sure. For what it's worth, ABS+ does seem to have caused problems in some people's Tap builds. But those are thin, high-stress parts.

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I think its just fine, depending on how hot you let your chamber get... printing ABS/ASA I think it doesnt matter, a little flex is better than breaking.

I mostly print ASA, but lately been printing esun ABS+ too, and it seems just fine to me, color is really nice too, and a little more flex, what helps with certain parts.

But, I must admit, I think for inside the printer I stay with ASA, skirts and other outside parts ABS+ is fine, since I build printers for other people and dont want them to come back with failures.

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9 minutes ago, PFarm said:

@Buurman what the max temp you'd want in the chamber when printing ABS?

Oh I dont really look at max, but it kinda caps by default around 60, I already start printing when its above 45.

I somehow never have parts wanting to release from the build plate, but I mostly print ASA, and lately then Esun ABS+.
Old fashion ABS (that you can smooth with acetone) I stay away from, I dont want to die when printing that stinking stuff, and yes, I use filters, but still, open up the door ones, and it really smells bad....

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The hottest I have seen my current chamber with all the fans running was @40c.  Now, this is from a cheap Temp/Humidity reader I found on Amazon that I have sitting in the back corner of the enclosure. I am sure it's fairly accurate, but the point is valid that you just don't know without some testing. I may just get some ABS or ASA and try that.  

Oh, and with those temperatures I have about a 95% success rate with prints sticking really well.  The other 5% is related to not having a great bed mesh since it's only an issue at the extents of the current bed.  Now, maybe it's a heat thing and I am just getting too close to where the temp drops off.  I did go and refresh the bed mesh the other day and it seemed to help but I am sure it needs a little more attention. 

So, never printed ASA, how does it compare to ABS?  Can it be used for internal parts or just external?  I know that Prusa is now printing all their parts with PETG and they also sell an enclosure for those printers.  Does that mean that they are stating that it's enough?  I am up for trying ASA since I have not printed with it yet, just not sure that its good enough for inside the enclosure.

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16 minutes ago, bdejong11129 said:

I am up for trying ASA since I have not printed with it yet, just not sure that its good enough for inside the enclosure.

ASA is more UV resistant than ABS, otherwise much the same. Printing ASA is similar to printing ABS. One tip though is to heat soak your chamber for about 20min before starting a print. This allows for heat expansion in the bed, and frame to stabilise.  (I heat my bed to 110, nozzle to 150 (because of TAP), and once it reaches temperature, let it sit for 20min, then start the print which will home, clean the nozzle, home again, do a QGL and adaptive bed mesh, heat the nozzle and print) Chamber temp at that time will get up to about 60 degrees.

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So is ASA allowed, good, sufficient, approved for the internal parts on a Voron?  I really don't mind printing so any excuse to print more is ok with me. lol. If it's pure, real ABS or nothing then I will start printing with the Paramount ABS I have on hand.  I just have not seen anything out there that talks about the Pro/Con of each material. Other than PLA is a no-go of course. 

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6 minutes ago, bdejong11129 said:

So is ASA allowed, good, sufficient, approved for the internal parts on a Voron?

Yes, ASA is approved. See the materials discussion here: "Both of the variants [of ABS] ASA and ABS+ are also fully supported."

If that's not sufficiently convincing, check the Discord. This is a frequently discussed topic.

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48 minutes ago, bdejong11129 said:

So is ASA allowed, good, sufficient, approved for the internal parts on a Voron?  I really don't mind printing so any excuse to print more is ok with me. lol. If it's pure, real ABS or nothing then I will start printing with the Paramount ABS I have on hand.  I just have not seen anything out there that talks about the Pro/Con of each material. Other than PLA is a no-go of course. 

Yes it is. @Buurman has now built, I think 13 vorons 2.4, all with ASA

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Excellent news. Is there a preference between ASA and ABS+? I will check the discord when I have time.  Documentation as far as the manual is still only listing ABS and was wondering if the shrinkage of ASA OR ABS+ is different as far as the models are concerned. 

I am doing some test prints of the ABS material I have on hand for color choices. Orange is looking pretty good with the space gray.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, GarthSnyder said:

Yes, ASA is approved. See the materials discussion here: "Both of the variants [of ABS] ASA and ABS+ are also fully supported."

If that's not sufficiently convincing, check the Discord. This is a frequently discussed topic.

I see ot now. Good to know now both are supported. Will see what pri ts the best on my current Voron so I can get the best result for the Sibling. Lol

 

Other than eSun and Paramount what other filiments have people had good results with? 

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ASA seem to be a little tougher and a bit higher temp is needed to print it. (only 5 to 10 degrees)

Yes ASA is mostly better UV resistant, but its more different than ABS than most think, its a little better heat resistant, harder than ABS (sometimes that a disadvantage) but most, way less smelly to print.

I used a lot of Polymaker Polylite ASA, and its a very good matt ASA, but im looking for a deeper black one, this one is a bit very dark grey.

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16 minutes ago, PFarm said:

There is 32 colour in the Sparkle ABS,  15 colours in the ASA Sparkle.

No, in the pulldown menu you can select all colors that are available in ABS. just dont look at the images alone. 😉

EDIT: I notice they are not the same anymore... but 22 are available in ASA from the list.

Maybe the others too, just request it otherwise, I will ask the owner in Discord..

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