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Trident getting way too hot


mbunjes

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What would be acceptable chamber temperatures for printing ABS ?

I have had to reprint my entire Stealthburner toolhead because it was seriously deformed by the heat . I found this out after a few clogs due to heat creep. I never noticed and haven't seen the heater fan malfunctioning but I can't think of another explanation for the heat creep.

The X extrusion, let alone the extruder motor, is too hot too touch, is this normal ?

The motor's run current is at 0.5

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What motor is it?

I´ve been printing at 65 degrees into my micron and it keeps them fairly stable... and no distorting problems.

The only time I managed to distort my hot end setup (in that case was an aftersherpa) It was printing PC10 with a hot end temperature of 335 degrees.

Where the distortion happened, in my case was the hot end cooling exhaust air hitting a corner... This was measured at 112 degrees when the movements were pretty slow.

image.thumb.jpeg.b3599e71b8bf52d042e7caf14505bc8a.jpeg

Bottom end, I doubt your problems are down to chamber temperature...

 

Do you have any possibility of mounting a surface temperature reading onto the toolhead near or just where the distortion happened?

Any pictures where the distorsion could be clearly seen would help to help you diagnose.

 

Edited by Maurici
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I would suggest doing a longer soak... 

In the 10 minutes that has taken you from one post to the other im confident you have not soaked it.

 

The hotter the chamber is less efficient will be the cooling of the hot end and heat creep could indeed be an issue...

 

Preheat all at printing temperatures, let it soak for an hour and check what happens...

Failing that and beeinf still under temperature, you can use the beaded thermocouple to check the surface temperature of the motor after a long extrusion (again with a hot chamber)...

Edited by Maurici
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wow!

ABS and this... seems kinda weird.

I´m affraid I´m just as stuck as you are.

Sometimes I´ve seen this happening due too much backpressure, because of a semiclogged nozzle (used to happen to me A LOT with the tungsteen nozzle in mi old microswiss MK8 and took me forever to figure out).

dump a new nozzle and see what happens? however If you are already seeing distorsion in your ABS hot end prints seems kinda obvious that there is heat creep...

Another stupidly basic question (sorry no offense intended) but is the fan spinning the right way around? or is a blower kind of thing?

 

Edited by Maurici
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I already ordered a new one but I don't want to keep doing that at 24 euros a piece.  It has printed perfect parts and then suddenly this happens randomly.

I'm going to re-crimp all connectors of the heating circuit and see if it makes a difference.

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28 minutes ago, mbunjes said:

. But all fans blow in the same direction, away and out from the label

not all, the one that came with my Micron and Zero kit blows towards the labble and the movement is counterclockwise... (label inside) the ones I do have In my biqus are setup to spin clockwise label outside... worth a check even if unlikely. 

Edited by Maurici
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That is strange. IIRC we have similar setup: Stealthburner with a Revo. I run my motor at 0.6A and it gets pretty warm but the motor--much less x extrusion--don't get too hot to touch. With Nevermore running I can get my chamber up to about 40-42C max. 

I haven't really seen heat creep that  I could identify on my Revo. The worst clog I got was when playing with Nylon; it didn't clog up as far as yours did, but maybe 1/3 of the way up. I have a nice precision drill set and have one that fits perfectly in the Revo heatbreak. So I carefully drilled out the stuck plastic by hand; that got it down to just what was left in the orifice, which I was able to heat enough and use some cleaning filament to purge out. I learned to make sure to unload the Nylon and run a quick purge after finishing using it.

I'm still using the original front plate I printed on my Mini over a year ago.

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After removing and closely inspecting my stealthburner setup I found that one of the connector pins for the hotend fan on the hartk pcb (the one that's screwed behind the motor) was not soldered correctly and was loose. So I'm going to reflow that. It could definitely be the culprit.

I did exactly the same with a small drill but I can't escape the impression it's not really the most perfect solution. You're drilling in a precision instrument and it gives me the shivers.

 

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1 hour ago, claudermilk said:

With Nevermore running I can get my chamber up to about 40-42C max.

Mine after an hour heatsoak is up to 58-59, also with Nevermore and exhaust fan at 50%. may be it's the chamber volume ?

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4 hours ago, mbunjes said:

Mine after an hour heatsoak is up to 58-59,

My chamber with the Ellis fan mod is now getting up to 68C and the revo has not clogged as yet. Don't think that would be it.

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For abs cant be chamber temperature.... but main fan if anything... my micron chamber will peak near 70 when all on and still im not having any hot end dramas despite only usinf a mini after sherpa...

(Well. Im lying i had a melted sherpa cowl when printing PC10 @ 335deg but still not heat creep... and im only using a HF phaetus dragon... that apparently is not especially well loved despite i think is mega)

Edited by Maurici
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