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Thinking about building a 0.1 Voron; what sort of upgrades should I implement?

DennisM

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DennisM

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Hi!

I'm a happy 2.4r2 user and was thinking about building a 0.1 (because, why not?) and I think it will use far less electricity than my 300mm 2.4 build. I think most of the things I'll print will fit within the 100mm limit, so that would be good as well. Plus, of course, it'll be fun!

I'm debating on sourcing my own parts or buying a formbot kit. I'm comparing pricing and such. I have *some* parts left over from my 2.4 build but I'm not totally sure what I can reuse on the 0.1. Here's a breakdown of things I am pretty sure I'd like to do, and I'm open to ideas of other things that everyone would recommend.

  • I like the idea of a better top-hat, like this thing
  • I also think I'd like to use a metal under bed frame, like this Kirigami
  • One thing I definitely want to try and figure out is how to use a BTT TFT43 touch screen with Klipperscreen with this, which would include trying to find a front angled mount for it. I took a quick look around and didn't find much in the way of making it work but I'm sure I can find something or model one in Blender. I'm also open to using a TFT50 but that might be too big for this printer. Maybe an externally mounted one in an enclosure? I have a TFT50 on my 2.4 and consider it very helpful when using the printer.
  • The formbot kit includes Moon motors, which I've been happy with on my 2.4 build.
  • Are there options for better part cooling? The two 3010s seem like they'd have troubles cooling during faster printing
  • I'm probably going to get another DHF hotend (since that's what I'm using now and have parts) unless there's something better. Not looking for super high speed printing, I just like the flow rate of the DHF unit on my 2.4.
  • Speaking of hot ends, is the stock printhead good enough or are there upgraded versions I should consider (esp. with the DHF hotend)? I used the ABBN modified AB head for my DHF on the 2.4 and it works well, even with PLA. I'm working on the SB/taptap upgrade for the 2.4 at the moment.
  • Is that tiny SSR that comes standard OK for this setup? I would assume the bed heater is very low wattage so probably, but I've seen upgrades for the larger SSR like I use on the Voron 2.4, and I'd be happy with upgrading to that. I will make sure whatever I use is off by default, not on upon power up.
  • I'm definitely going to use an umbilical with PCBs between the printhead and back of the printer, and the formbot kit includes that.
  • Are there ACM panel upgrades I should do (rather than just acrylic) like I did for my 2.4? I don't want to deal with warping.
  • I understand it's manual leveling, which I'm not a fan of, but if that's how it is and it's so small that it's easy I'll deal. But if there's a klicky/euclid or even TAPTAP option I'll explore that as I'm super happy with my Euclid setup on the 2.4 printer.

And I'm sure some folks will ask what materials I am going to use it for -- so I'll say that I'm primarily going to use this printer for PLA, but also ABS and ASA. I don't print with PETG. And I'm going to get some sort of smooth buildplate for it as I'm not a fan of the textured PEI stuff that's commonly used.

Thanks in advance for your time in reading over this and for any tips and advice you can recommend before I dive on in!

Dennis

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smirk Mentor

smirk

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Hi, as I approach the completion of my second V0.1 (well technically probably waiting for the next interesting way I can muff things up....fat sausage fingers) here's my thoughts:

 

  1. Defo on a better, or rather higher top-hat, I like the look of the existing V0 tophat. I don't like building it (worse part of the build) so either a single piece top-hat (since you have a large 2.4 to print one on) with some sort of extenders to make it taller (or possibly hinged) there are a couple in the downloadable mods section. Personally I don't like the square version - too much like Frankesteins monster for my personal tastes (but that's me).
     
  2. I would also say go the kit route unless you have a lot of parts spare. By the sounds of it you won't have the 1515 extensions or panels, or 150mm Linear rails so it's probably quicker (and marginally cheaper depending on approach) to get a kit. Certainly more convenient. I've used Formbot for both my V0's and am happy wih it.
     
  3. The Kirigami bed is "good" although I have reservations - the've got to be well manufactured. In theory it sounds like it should be easy to make  but they can be bent all kinds of out of whack (as I found out on my build). I've ordered one of these solid metal beds as an experiment. I would recommend something solid and metal over the stock Voron V0 bed arrangement.
     
  4. The MiniStealth burner by @atrushing looks like an excellent option and it includes larger 4010 cooling fans, I think you do lose a little print space because of that though.
     
  5. The V0 doesn't have an SSR (the bed is standard DC 24V @ 60W or so) you're probably thinking of the 24V -> 5V buck converter for powering the PI. This is absolutely fine and works. Although my latest build has used a SKR PICO board with Raspberry PI Zero 2W (powered from the PICO) and I've been pleased by the compactness of that.
     
  6. There are definitely ACM panels out there (I've used them in my current build, can't remember where I sourced them) but next time I will use those from Fermio. I definitely like the finish of the ACM panels, much better than the acrylic.
     
  7. Yup, definitely fit a Klicky probe to your V0, did that for my current build and I'm really impressed. It's semi automatic bedlevelling with the screws adjustment routine but it makes bed levelling so much easier and you get the bed mesh thing as well.
     
  8. Other things I'd recommend - removable magnetic panels - Even if you never remove them, they are really useful for the build process and maintenance. If you need to get your hands into the machine to work on it being able to easily remove the panels is really great.
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Buurman Mentor

Buurman

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Most important from my experience, no tophat, would never build one with a top hat. Order 4 more 30cm frame parts and  go for a higher v0, fixed.

on a phone and don’t know the name of the mod but check out @mvdveerhis last v0 build… an absolute beast.

 

and the mini stealthburner btw.. 2 absolute musts 😉

 

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Buurman Mentor

Buurman

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1 minute ago, smirk said:

Hi, as I approach the completion of my second V0.1 (well technically probably waiting for the next interesting way I can muff things up....fat sausage fingers) here's my thoughts:

  1. Defo on a better, or rather higher top-hat, I like the look of the existing V0 tophat. I don't like building it (worse part of the build) so either a single piece top-hat (since you have a large 2.4 to print one on) with some sort of extenders to make it taller (or possibly hinged) there are a couple in the downloadable mods section. Personally I don't like the square version - too much like Frankesteins monster for my personal tastes (but that's me).
     
  2. I would also say go the kit route unless you have a lot of parts spare. By the sounds of it you won't have the 1515 extensions or panels, or 150mm Linear rails so it's probably quicker (and marginally cheaper depending on approach) to get a kit. Certainly more convenient. I've used Formbot for both my V0's and am happy wih it.
     
  3. The Kirigami bed is "good" although I have reservations - the've got to be well manufactured. In theory it sounds like it sound be easy to make on but they can be bent all kinds of out of whack (as I found out on my build). I've ordered one of these solid metal beds as an experiment. I would recommend something solid and metal over the stock Voron V0 bed arrangement.
     
  4. The MiniStealth burner by @atrushing looks like an excellent option and it includes larger 4010 cooling fans, I think you do loose a little print space because of that though.
     
  5. The V0 doesn't have an SSR (the bed is standard DC 24V @ 60W or so) you're probably thinking of the 24V -> 5V buck converter for powering the PI. This is absolutely fine and works. Although my latest build has used a SKR PICO board with Raspberry PI Zero 2W (powered from the PICO) and I've been pleased by the compactness of that.
     
  6. There are definitely ACM panels out there (I've used them in my current build, can't remember where I sourced them) but next time I will use those from Fermio. I definitely like the finish of the ACM panels, much better than the acrylic.
     
  7. Yup, definitely fit a Klicky probe to your V0, did that for my current build and I'm really impressed. It's semi automatic bedlevelling with the screws adjustment routine but it makes bed levelling so much easier and you get the bed mesh thing as well.
     
  8. Other things I'd recommend - removable magnetic panels - Even if you never remove them, they are really useful for the build process and maintenance. If you need to get your hands into the machine to work on it being able to easily remove the panels is really great.

Clearly you are not typing on a phone like me 😂 well put together @smirk respect!

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DennisM Collaborator

DennisM

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Totally awesome feedback here -- that's why I love this place 🙂

I do appreciate the tips and advice and will heed all of it when it comes times to my build. I forgot to mention that I will use magnetic clips as I did that for my 2.4 and absolutely can't live without it.

I'll explore the metal bed support options and see about the top hat options. I did see the extended frame option on some other site so I'll explore that.

On the SSR, I found the comment about it and it was about the "0" kit, so it's maybe outdated information. That clip is here.

For the AC panels this is what I was thinking of -- considering it's only $25 it seems worth it.

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mvdveer Grand Master

mvdveer

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Having build 3x V0's, I would concur with the advice from both @smirk and @Buurman. The matter of the top hat is personal preference. The standard top hat is one of the biggest weaknesses of this machine in my humble opinion. The Extended tophat is not without it own problems though a better option. The extended frame does change the looks of the machine but functionally excellent. It does require other mods as well, but functionally the best. 

Another option the the magnetic panels are Zeropanels: (no additional cost)

https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroPanels

Another option to the click probe is zeroclick - this has a much smaller footprint and uses the kicky macros:

https://github.com/zruncho3d/ZeroClick

This is probably a better option if you decide to go with the mini-StealthBurner as @atrushing has made a version of this that mounts onto the fan - see:

https://www.teamfdm.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=2712&key=d9c3ed8681fb39335386289a1abc4bb3

Looking forward to following this build

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smirk Mentor

smirk

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3 hours ago, DennisM said:

On the SSR, I found the comment about it and it was about the "0" kit, so it's maybe outdated information.

I wouldn't say the info is outdated, it's just a different option, they're using an AC powered bed for the V0. You can get them. TBH, I've not had any issues getting to or holding the bed temperature at 110C with the 60W 24V DC power beds. So beyond quicker heat up times I'm not convinced that you need an AC bed for something as small as the V0. It's extra wiring (you need to make sure the bed's earthed, you need the SSR, etc) for not much benefit (heat up in seconds rather than minutes) so probably better to avoid.

The only other thing I'd say is I simply would not use a mains rated  SSR from ebay/aliexpress/amazon or whatever. For the AC powered beds that I have I've always coughed up the money and bought brand name items from reputable suppliers (Farnell, digikey, mouser, etc) along with the heatsinks to go with them. I don't like taking chances with mains leccy, I've been fortunate enough and survived one or two stupid mains-related mistakes in my youth (old enough now to realise I wasn't actually immortal 😉 ).

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claudermilk Grand Master

claudermilk

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I'm at about the same point myself. The primary plan I have is get the LDO V0.1 S1 kit. I may hold out until the V0.2 is released--it's apparently waiting on docs being finished. From what I understand the main changes are official mini-SB and extended tophat using 1515 extrusions.

So, with the LDO S1 kit, that's going to include Kirigami, picobilical (PCB-based umbilical), upgraded 24V heater, Revo Voron special edition (blue heatsink! I'm totally stealing this for my blue Trident).

I like the look of the Stealth Zero mod. Not decided if I want to tackle that yet.

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mvdveer Grand Master

mvdveer

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5 hours ago, claudermilk said:

BTW, Voron Live next week! Speculation running rampant (of course),

My guess V0.2, but then rumours are just that and speculation a nice word for "your guess is good as mine"

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claudermilk Grand Master

claudermilk

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They made their stated deadline on releasing the files. I saw the notification come through Sunday afternoon (Pacific time). I've already downloaded the files. I'm also ditching some mods I've considered (mainly the Mastur Mynd stealth look parts). Monies getting set aside now. My last question is going to have to go to the vendors: am I better grabbing the LDO V0.1 S1 kit now plus the V0.2 upgrade kit, or just wait for LDO to put out the V0.2 version. Just checked Discord & saw Jason mention after Chinese New Year, so I'm thinking I'll wait.

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smirk Mentor

smirk

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1 hour ago, claudermilk said:

after Chinese New Year, so I'm thinking I'll wait.

Probably wise, I was just ordering some moons motors and noticed the "We'll be closed at the end of the month" messaging popping up. No doubt after, I think, the largest internal migration on the planet they all've caught COVID/flu/plague so that'll add even more delays.

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